You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with stuff added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.
Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint you touch is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40 years and I live by this advice. Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing detergent isle. Jeff Birt From: M100 <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Daniel L Sent: Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results On 2/9/23 05:17, [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> wrote: There are two different causes of corrosion here. The battery has an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery neutralize the electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion will wick through the solder joint making it to the other side of the PCB and eating the via. Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get from the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as possible to refresh them after forty years. The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is one of the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in capacitors is acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean and repair damaged traces. Where do you get ammonia? I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to YouTube and search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for ‘Model 100’. I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I got my first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the other day.
