At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint store, it's
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.
If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just got someone who
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in the automotive
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or seasonal because
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic even though
they normally don't carry that.
Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or methanol, but it's a
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for cleaning
electronics.
You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics supply shops,
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually has it in their
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much more expensive.
--
bkw
On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the garage,
and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem to have
alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next.
Distilled water from rite aid next.
On 2/9/23 16:23, [email protected] wrote:
You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with stuff
added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.
Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint you touch
is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40 years
and I live by this advice.
Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing detergent
isle.
Jeff Birt
*From:* M100 <[email protected]> *On Behalf Of *Daniel L
*Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
On 2/9/23 05:17, [email protected] wrote:
There are two different causes of corrosion here. The battery has
an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery neutralize the
electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
will wick through the solder joint making it to the other side of
the PCB and eating the via.
Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get from
the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as possible to
refresh them after forty years.
The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is one of
the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in capacitors is
acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean
and repair damaged traces.
Where do you get ammonia?
I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to YouTube and
search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for ‘Model
100’.
I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I got my
first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the other day.
--
bkw
