Back when 151 was still being made, my broham would always through a
bash for his birthday and we'd all get a shot of 151. Now that it's no
longer made, it's everclear. Stuff is nasty.
On 2/19/23 02:33, [email protected] wrote:
Now you could go to the liquor store and buy some Everclear (assuming
you are in a state where it is legal).
Everclear is sold at 190 proof or 95% alcohol. It is about as pure
an alcohol as you can get and still have it consumable. (Denatured
will kill you if you drink it.)
A gazillion years ago (about 43 years ago), I worked with Honeywell at
a McDonnell Douglass Aircraft facility in St. Charles, MO. We were
developing automatic test programs for F-15 SRAs (Shop Replaceable
Assemblies, i.e. circuit boards). The multirack test equipment had a
Virginial panel that allowed you to connect a interface test adapter
(ITA - I think we called it that). The adapter was set on the panel
and lever was pulled and the connectors all mated with the test
adapter pins. The lever was to generate some slight wiping action as
several hundred pins made contact.
Honeywell technicians used a bottle of Everclear and a 2inch or so
finishing paint brush to clean the panel prior to setting the ITA on
it. It seemed to help make reliable connections.
It is probably the only good use for that substance. I can’t imagine
ever drinking it again. (I had some bad experiences with it in
college.) 😊
Lloyd
*From:* M100 <[email protected]> *On Behalf Of *Brian
White
*Sent:* Saturday, February 18, 2023 9:36 PM
*To:* [email protected]
*Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
Wow. That is a bit ridiculous. Well 91% is ok. You just may want to
heat the whole thing with a hair dryer because 91% will leave a little
moisture especially in all the corners and trapped spaces. Heat will
drive the last bit out. And a hair dryer isn't hot enough to worry
about harming anything even when it gets too hot to touch.
bkw
On Sat, Feb 18, 2023, 8:40 PM Daniel L <[email protected]> wrote:
I got the distilled water from rite aid. Then went to home depot
to get the alcohol. The paint department supervisor told me that
California banned the sale of denatured alcohol five years ago and
it carries a $5000 penalty if caught with it without a
contractor's permit. They don't sell it.
They also don't carry 99% alcohol in store, it has to be ordered
online for home delivery.
I found 91% at the drug store so I'll use that.
On 2/10/23 00:14, Gregory McGill wrote:
Also harbor freight has 99%
On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White
<[email protected]> wrote:
At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint
store, it's
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.
If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just
got someone who
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in
the automotive
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or
seasonal because
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic
even though
they normally don't carry that.
Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or
methanol, but it's a
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for
cleaning
electronics.
You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics
supply shops,
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually
has it in their
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much
more expensive.
--
bkw
On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
> OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already
in the garage,
> and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't
seem to have
> alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor
freight next.
> Distilled water from rite aid next.
>
> On 2/9/23 16:23, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing
alcohol with stuff
>> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware
store 99.9%.
>>
>> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every
joint you touch
>> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering
for 40 years
>> and I live by this advice.
>>
>> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths
washing detergent
>> isle.
>>
>> Jeff Birt
>>
>> *From:* M100 <[email protected]> *On
Behalf Of *Daniel L
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
>>
>> On 2/9/23 05:17, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> There are two different causes of corrosion here.
The battery has
>> an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery
neutralize the
>> electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like
vinegar or
>> citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the
solder from
>> components that have been affected and resolder.
The corrosion
>> will wick through the solder joint making it to the
other side of
>> the PCB and eating the via.
>>
>> Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol
you get from
>> the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints
as possible to
>> refresh them after forty years.
>>
>>
>> The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the
M100. Every
>> M100 that has not already been recapped needs done.
It is one of
>> the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in
capacitors is
>> acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the
worst of the
>> corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild
alkaline
>> solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia,
etc.) Clean
>> and repair damaged traces.
>>
>> Where do you get ammonia?
>>
>> I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go
to YouTube and
>> search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page
search for ‘Model
>> 100’.
>>
>> I love your channel and have been a subscriber since
before I got my
>> first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail
the other day.
>>
>
--
bkw
