I got the distilled water from rite aid. Then went to home depot to get
the alcohol. The paint department supervisor told me that California
banned the sale of denatured alcohol five years ago and it carries a
$5000 penalty if caught with it without a contractor's permit. They
don't sell it.
They also don't carry 99% alcohol in store, it has to be ordered online
for home delivery.
I found 91% at the drug store so I'll use that.
On 2/10/23 00:14, Gregory McGill wrote:
Also harbor freight has 99%
On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White <[email protected]>
wrote:
At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint store, it's
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.
If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just got
someone who
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in the
automotive
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or seasonal
because
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic even though
they normally don't carry that.
Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or methanol, but
it's a
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for cleaning
electronics.
You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics supply shops,
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually has it in
their
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much more
expensive.
--
bkw
On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
> OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the
garage,
> and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem to
have
> alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next.
> Distilled water from rite aid next.
>
> On 2/9/23 16:23, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with
stuff
>> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.
>>
>> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint
you touch
>> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40
years
>> and I live by this advice.
>>
>> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing
detergent
>> isle.
>>
>> Jeff Birt
>>
>> *From:* M100 <[email protected]> *On Behalf Of
*Daniel L
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
>> *To:* [email protected]
>> *Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
>>
>> On 2/9/23 05:17, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> There are two different causes of corrosion here. The
battery has
>> an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery
neutralize the
>> electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
>> citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
>> components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
>> will wick through the solder joint making it to the other
side of
>> the PCB and eating the via.
>>
>> Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get
from
>> the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as
possible to
>> refresh them after forty years.
>>
>>
>> The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
>> M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is
one of
>> the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in
capacitors is
>> acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
>> corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
>> solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean
>> and repair damaged traces.
>>
>> Where do you get ammonia?
>>
>> I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to
YouTube and
>> search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for
‘Model
>> 100’.
>>
>> I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I
got my
>> first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the
other day.
>>
>
--
bkw
