Now you could go to the liquor store and buy some Everclear (assuming you are 
in a state where it is legal).

 

Everclear is sold at 190 proof or 95% alcohol.    It is about as pure an 
alcohol as you can get and still have it consumable.  (Denatured will kill you 
if you drink it.)

 

A gazillion years ago (about 43 years ago), I worked with Honeywell at a 
McDonnell Douglass Aircraft facility in St. Charles, MO.     We were developing 
automatic test programs for F-15 SRAs (Shop Replaceable Assemblies, i.e. 
circuit boards).   The multirack test equipment had a Virginial panel that 
allowed you to connect a interface test adapter (ITA - I think we called it 
that).   The adapter was set on the panel and lever was pulled and the 
connectors all mated with the test adapter pins.   The lever was to generate 
some slight wiping action as several hundred pins made contact.   

 

Honeywell technicians used a bottle of Everclear and a 2inch or so finishing 
paint brush to clean the panel prior to setting the ITA on it.   It seemed to 
help make reliable connections.  

 

It is probably the only good use for that substance.  I can’t imagine ever 
drinking it again.  (I had some bad experiences with it in college.)   😊

 

Lloyd

 

 

From: M100 <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Brian White
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2023 9:36 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results

 

Wow. That is a bit ridiculous. Well 91% is ok. You just may want to heat the 
whole thing with a hair dryer because 91% will leave a little moisture 
especially in all the corners and trapped spaces. Heat will drive the last bit 
out. And a hair dryer isn't hot enough to worry about harming anything even 
when it gets too hot to touch.

 

 

bkw

 

On Sat, Feb 18, 2023, 8:40 PM Daniel L <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

I got the distilled water from rite aid. Then went to home depot to get the 
alcohol. The paint department supervisor told me that California banned the 
sale of denatured alcohol five years ago and it carries a $5000 penalty if 
caught with it without a contractor's permit. They don't sell it.

They also don't carry 99% alcohol in store, it has to be ordered online for 
home delivery.

I found 91% at the drug store so I'll use that.



On 2/10/23 00:14, Gregory McGill wrote:

Also harbor freight has 99%

 

On Fri, Feb 10, 2023, 12:05 AM Brian K. White <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

At any hardware store in the paint section, or any paint store, it's 
called denatured alcohol not isopropyl.

If you asked for isopropyl specifically, maybe you just got someone who 
didn't know enough, they might have looked for Drygas in the automotive 
section or actual isopropyl in the cleaning supplies or seasonal because 
they might have actually carried it just for the pandemic even though 
they normally don't carry that.

Denatured isn't isopropyl, it's either ethanol or methanol, but it's a 
lot more readily available and cheaper and works fine for cleaning 
electronics.

You can find 99.9% isopropyl for more $$ at electronics supply shops, 
which you may not have any near by. Micro Center usually has it in their 
maker section if you have one of those around. It's much more expensive.

-- 
bkw

On 2/9/23 20:10, Daniel L wrote:
> OK, just got home from home depot. Had ammonia already in the garage, 
> and have purchased cleaning vinegar. Home depot couldn't seem to have 
> alcohol on hand and nor does lowes. Gonna try harbor freight next. 
> Distilled water from rite aid next.
> 
> On 2/9/23 16:23, [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>  wrote:
>>
>> You want to use at least 90% alcohol. No rubbing alcohol with stuff 
>> added to it. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store 99.9%.
>>
>> Resolder the joints you need to. Don’t go crazy. Every joint you touch 
>> is a chance to mess something up. I have been soldering for 40 years 
>> and I live by this advice.
>>
>> Ammonia is available from any grocery in the cloths washing detergent 
>> isle.
>>
>> Jeff Birt
>>
>> *From:* M100 <[email protected] 
>> <mailto:[email protected]> > *On Behalf Of *Daniel L
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 9, 2023 5:36 PM
>> *To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> 
>> *Subject:* Re: [M100] stupid move = expected results
>>
>> On 2/9/23 05:17, [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>  wrote:
>>
>>     There are two different causes of corrosion here. The battery has
>>     an alkaline electrolyte, after removing the battery neutralize the
>>     electrolyte left on the PCB with a mild acid like vinegar or
>>     citric acid. Then clean well. I like to remove the solder from
>>     components that have been affected and resolder. The corrosion
>>     will wick through the solder joint making it to the other side of
>>     the PCB and eating the via.
>>
>> Good thing I have citric acid. Can I use normal alcohol you get from 
>> the drug store? I will be re-soldering as many joints as possible to 
>> refresh them after forty years.
>>
>>
>>     The capacitor corrosion is much, much worse on the M100. Every
>>     M100 that has not already been recapped needs done. It is one of
>>     the few machines I always recap. The electrolyte in capacitors is
>>     acidic. After removing the capacitors scrape the worst of the
>>     corrosion off and then treat the area with a mild alkaline
>>     solution to neutralize any remaining acid (ammonia, etc.) Clean
>>     and repair damaged traces.
>>
>> Where do you get ammonia?
>>
>>     I have covered this procedure in several videos. Go to YouTube and
>>     search for ‘HeyBirt!’. And from my channel page search for ‘Model
>>     100’.
>>
>> I love your channel and have been a subscriber since before I got my 
>> first m100. Actually, I called and left you a voicemail the other day.
>>
> 

-- 
bkw

 

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