Hello, 

Sounds like your doing OK considering what you have described. BUT: I hope you 
have really good profiled monitors such as the larger Apples or Eizo's.
And be sure youre NOT assigning profiles that are far off of what may be 
embedded in the file (Abobe RGB 1998 is good middle ground).
If you are printing, be sure to use color proofing paper, or paper that is 
bright white - but not "photo archival" paper, that will darken some of the 3/4 
tones.  Epson has a Proofing roll that is very good. 

My experience is you may call these "reference prints." That will stop a 
printer from looking at these as "match prints," but at least give them some 
sense of the color and densities. 

You do have a broken work flow however and the only fix is to have the person 
who has the original film to review the print you have made. AND...they have to 
view the print and the film in a professional way, AND.... make proper notes 
describing ink density changes.  All that is why most printers will tell you to 
stay away from digital images.  They would rather scan the film and control all 
the color themselves.  

I have some commercial printing experience so call if you want more detail.  We 
are just instituting match prints here at Princeton.  A few notes regarding 
these:

True match prints are printed from digital files that have been converted to 
CMYK under the control of color management software such as Gretag.
These are printed in CMYK on color inkjet printers such as Epson 4800 or better 
(on epson "proof paper"), or DuPonts (which everyone hates) or Iris printers, 
which are really getting
replaced everywhere.  Other true match prints are directly from your commercial 
printer, or a color separator using some of the larger Kodak proofers.

However, In house you can take some short cuts and do very well with RGB match 
prints.  We are using an Epson 2200 and printing on Epson Proof paper (roll) 
and performing 1-3 rounds of color correction. These corrections are matching 
the color film that was scanned.  The transparency and match print are viewed 
side by side in a light booth or GTI film/transparency viewer.  Have your 
monitor calibrated by the same software that calibrates and profiles your 
printer.  

Sorry for the long response, 
JEFF

Jeffrey Evans
Princeton Univ Art Museum
609.258.8579


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] on behalf of Deborah Wythe
Sent: Mon 3/12/2007 9:35 AM
To: mcn-l at mcn.edu
Subject: [MCN-L] DM SIG: match prints from digital files
 
Hello all,

Have other photo studios/scan labs/R&R departments been wrestling with the 
issue of match prints (or "match prints"), now that most of us are no longer 
sending out transparencies to publishers?

It's one thing to produce a match print on a high-end printer, using color 
management and calibrated everything when you have access to the original 
art or at least to a good transparency.

It's an entirely different proposition to do so when you are assembling 
images for a catalog from a variety of sources, most of whom now simply send 
you a digital file and many of whom do not have the capability of producing 
anything close to a match print. Publishers generally insist on a match 
print, and the lack of an analog resource to compare can certainly cause 
problems in the color proofing process.

When we only have the file to go by, our solution is to produce the best 
print we can, based on what we're seeing on our calibrated monitors and 
using the color profile we receive with the digital file. It's not ideal, 
but the best we can do, considering. One dilemma, though, is what to call 
these prints so that it's clear that they're not truly match prints that 
have a solid relationship to the original art. Or am I just splitting hairs? 
How are others handling this?

Thanks for your input,
Deb Wythe

Deborah Wythe
Head, Digital Collections and Services
Brooklyn Museum
200 Eastern Parkway
Brooklyn, NY 11238
tel: 718 501 6311
fax: 718 501 6145
deborahwythe at hotmail.com

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