my friend has had a L18 W to 92.5 bore
 
another guy in Ipswich has his speedway datto out to 90.5 bore
with a works crank of 90mm stroke
 
Heath
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, 12 May 2000 3:44
Subject: Re: L18W enquiries

Thrill Seekers
 
I have stripped the L18W down to short motor and head and here is what I have:
Head: A87 peanut chamber 38mm port, 44mm intake 36mm exhaust.  Cast marked #65 and 1029.
Block: 85mm bore
Crank: haven't removed it yet to check if steel or cast (appears steel) but it has A8740 and 33-0 stamped on it.
 
The engine sat in a four door 180B at the local wreckers for over 5 years with a dirty old Nikki 2 barrel on it.  The head has corrosion around the water jackets but is quite repairable.  Obviously the whole thing will be fully rebuilt.
 
As I stated I plan to bore it to 88mm and use L16rods/Z22S pistons - Should I bore it to 87mm to allow for a later rebuild just in case? 
 
Brad HALLETT
Ipswich, Qld
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: L18W enquiries

Brad,
They go very safely to 3.5" (88.8mm) so you could easily build yourself a copy of the once popular Nismo 1889 cc screamer with a V912/A87 38 mm ports and go have lots a fun. It would be nice also if you got the steel crank, the early HC 9.5:1 SSS W engines had them. The 1889 cc engine has a CR ~10.5:1 with the stock head thickness of 4.25" so you have to fiddle with the cam a bit to keep detonation in check (the 72 degree is good with webers).

enjoy,

Terry

Brad HALLETT wrote:

Thrillseekers, Due to a bizarre twist of fate, a local auto wrecker has given me a free complete L18W engine from a 610.  I have only seen it at night in the car so I have no idea what head is on it but it is a definite W block. I have never had a W block before, as I have always been content destroying nomal L18's. I therefore need to know what cylinder wall thicknessesI am looking at, i.e. what can I 'safely' bore it to, and what head will probably be on it.  It will be standard as it is on a four door, ll the plates match the stamps, and carb/exhaust are all standard. How hard are the bores?  Do they withstand outrageous stroke:rod ratios?  Is it better to fit an L20crank or just prep the L18 crank and make it rev? I could wait until I pick it up and disassemble it, but where would the fun be in that? ThanksBrad


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