Hey Jake,
I agree, I think your bros car would benefit from a full cage for sure!.
With the way it hooked up from the 1600 Workshop that day, I can well
believe body flex could be a problem. AWESOME!
I still need to look at the bits but have a bit on at the moment & dollars
are at an all time low due to freight, customs and the Great Sucking Tax.
Cheers
Feral Errol
----------
From: Turbo 510 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: paint cracking probs with road SR/FJs
Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 4:34
Andrew,
I run an FJ and my bro runs an SR, both turbo's. My car is rough but has
been seam welded at the front but not the back. My bro's car has 80,000
genuine miles and was garaged by the previous owner for it's whole life.
Bot
shells are starting to crack up around the rear window where the rear
guards
join. Front seems to holding together ok on my bro's car.
I am in Vic and you can easily get an SR20T engineered in a std 1600 shell
with good brakes. My bro's car was engineered with 4w discs but the body is
entirely as it left Datsun apart from mods to clear the gearbox. A proper
welded in steel roll cage will make a huge difference to structural
rigidity, don't bother with alloy as they are illegal on the track as far
as
CAMS is concerned.
Jake
ps Andrew Tavenor is in Vic as well. His car runs a big $ L series turbo.
I've never heard of anyone needing a strut brace for a rwc. If the car is
legal with whatever drivetrain the the RWC test should only cover rwc
items,
not structural integrity(apart from rust).
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