hey i was wondering if u have to replace the window rubbers if u take the window out 
and is hard to get the crome stripp out of the rubbers


--- "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
>
>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Richard,</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Datto's are easy to repaint as you can remove all 
>necessary hardware easily and get at all the right places for a "proper' 
>respray, not just an external "overcoat".&nbsp; Minimise the use of masking 
>tape.&nbsp; I remove all panels and front and rear windscreens and all 
>hardware.&nbsp; The latter can remain but&nbsp;I hate seeing paint on the rubber 
>surrounds and over door catches and handles, its a dead "respray" giveaway and 
>you may miss fixing any rust developing under the rubber. You simply push the 
>screens out from the inside with your feet.&nbsp; You can&nbsp;crack a laminated 
>screen this way but&nbsp;I usually replace these anyhow. </FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I know Bruce likes bead blasting to prepare the 
>metal. This is desirable if there is likely to be previous body damage or 
>repairs&nbsp;that need refinishing.&nbsp; IF A PANEL HAS ORIGINAL PAINT AND NO 
>RUST OR DAMAGE IT SIMPLY NEEDS RUBBING BACK (sorry hit the capslock) to allow 
>the new undercoat to adhere.&nbsp; You must&nbsp;sand&nbsp;back every sq 
>millimeter as the new coat will blister off unsanded areas.  This avoids the 
>need to prepare cleaned metal with etch primer to stop it rusting under the new 
>paint.&nbsp; Clean all surfaces to be painted with prepsol. This&nbsp;will 
>remove any trace of polish or oils from your hands that may have soaked into 
>the&nbsp;surface to be covered.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Anthony's advice is right.&nbsp; Go and look at how 
>someone else has done it first to get the right tips.&nbsp; Its not hard to do 
>when you have the right advice. You can get step by step pamphlets from a good 
>auto paint store eg PPG.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Use acrylic laquer and get plenty of thinners 
>(20lters).&nbsp; Acrylic lacquer is&nbsp;easy to paint and and repair blemishes, 
>runs and overspray.&nbsp;It dries fast and can be wet rubbed with&nbsp;600 -1200 
>grit to get a flat finish, if you&nbsp;spray it on a bit lumpy, or it 
>runs.&nbsp; Then you can cut it with wet rubbing compound&nbsp;and a rotary buff 
>for a good polish to finish. </FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm a self taught sprayer and&nbsp;I&nbsp;turn out 
>a reasonable paint job in my garage.&nbsp; The best advice is to prepare the 
>body panels right, using bog, sanding and putty where necessary&nbsp;until they 
>are perfectly shaped.&nbsp; Then&nbsp;get the undercoat on and again fill any 
>scratches, paint&nbsp;chips with more putty. Final undercoat and rub back with 
>wet paper&nbsp;until you are&nbsp;satisfied the surface is perfect, then spray 
>on the colour.&nbsp; The colour coat will&nbsp;dry to follow every 
>contour&nbsp;underneath it, every fault under it will show 
>up.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
><DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Go for it.</FONT></DIV>
><BLOCKQUOTE 
>style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; 
>PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
>  <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>  <DIV 
>  style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> 
>  <A href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]" [EMAIL PROTECTED]>Richard 
>  Webb</A> </DIV>
>  <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A 
>  href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]" 
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
>  <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, 17 December 2000 10:47 
>  AM</DIV>
>  <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Spray painting</DIV>
>  <DIV><BR></DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT size=2>Can someone give me some idea what is the best way to go 
>  about painting my 1600, I want to do as much of the work as possible... like 
>  stripping bogging etc. I saw you guys talking about sand blasting and acid 
>  dipping&nbsp; not too long ago. Can someone tell me the pros and cons of doing 
>  these. Also which parts of the car are hard to get back on once you have 
>  stripped it? I know things like the headlining would be hard.</FONT></DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT size=2>Also does anyone know a place in melbourne which would sell 
>  front spoilers? Do I need to think about airflow for an intercooler (planning 
>  on getting a turbo).</FONT></DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT size=2>thanks in advance</FONT></DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
>  <DIV><FONT 
>  
>size=2>Richard</FONT></DIV><BR>--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
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