You can reuse the window rubbers if they are in reasonable nick (not
cracked). Leave the chrome trim in place, it's cosmetic only and hard to
remove and refit without kinking.
To refit the screen, soap the rubber edge that needs to be pulled through to
the interior. Put a small dia. nylon rope around it in the rubber trench,
with the rope ends at the center bottom of the screen. Place the screen,
with rubber surround fitted into to place on the bottom edge above the
dash/rear shelf with the rope ends inside the car over the dash/rear shelf.
The sides and top of the rubber surround will not fit in yet. Pull on both
rope ends and the rubber will fold neatly over the ridge that retains it,
lubricated by the soap. Continue to pull carefully until all the locking
rubber is inside the car and the rope has completely pulled out of the
trench. The screen is now fitted!
I dont use any sealant between the rubber and the body and I have never had
a screen leak.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, 18 December 2000 23:57 PM
Subject: Re: Spray painting
> hey i was wondering if u have to replace the window rubbers if u take the
window out and is hard to get the crome stripp out of the rubbers
>
>
> --- "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Richard,</FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Datto's are easy to repaint as you can
remove all
> >necessary hardware easily and get at all the right places for a "proper'
> >respray, not just an external "overcoat". Minimise the use of
masking
> >tape. I remove all panels and front and rear windscreens and all
> >hardware. The latter can remain but I hate seeing paint on the
rubber
> >surrounds and over door catches and handles, its a dead "respray"
giveaway and
> >you may miss fixing any rust developing under the rubber. You simply push
the
> >screens out from the inside with your feet. You can crack a
laminated
> >screen this way but I usually replace these anyhow. </FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I know Bruce likes bead blasting to prepare
the
> >metal. This is desirable if there is likely to be previous body damage or
> >repairs that need refinishing. IF A PANEL HAS ORIGINAL PAINT
AND NO
> >RUST OR DAMAGE IT SIMPLY NEEDS RUBBING BACK (sorry hit the capslock) to
allow
> >the new undercoat to adhere. You must sand back every sq
> >millimeter as the new coat will blister off unsanded areas. This avoids
the
> >need to prepare cleaned metal with etch primer to stop it rusting under
the new
> >paint. Clean all surfaces to be painted with prepsol.
This will
> >remove any trace of polish or oils from your hands that may have soaked
into
> >the surface to be covered.</FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Anthony's advice is right. Go and look
at how
> >someone else has done it first to get the right tips. Its not hard
to do
> >when you have the right advice. You can get step by step pamphlets from a
good
> >auto paint store eg PPG.</FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Use acrylic laquer and get plenty of
thinners
> >(20lters). Acrylic lacquer is easy to paint and and repair
blemishes,
> >runs and overspray. It dries fast and can be wet rubbed
with 600 -1200
> >grit to get a flat finish, if you spray it on a bit lumpy, or it
> >runs. Then you can cut it with wet rubbing compound and a
rotary buff
> >for a good polish to finish. </FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm a self taught sprayer
and I turn out
> >a reasonable paint job in my garage. The best advice is to prepare
the
> >body panels right, using bog, sanding and putty where
necessary until they
> >are perfectly shaped. Then get the undercoat on and again fill
any
> >scratches, paint chips with more putty. Final undercoat and rub back
with
> >wet paper until you are satisfied the surface is perfect, then
spray
> >on the colour. The colour coat will dry to follow every
> >contour underneath it, every fault under it will show
> >up. </FONT></DIV>
> ><DIV> </DIV>
> ><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Go for it.</FONT></DIV>
> ><BLOCKQUOTE
> >style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT:
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
> > <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> > <DIV
> > style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color:
black"><B>From:</B>
> > <A href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Richard
> > Webb</A> </DIV>
> > <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
> > href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>
</DIV>
> > <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, 17 December 2000
10:47
> > AM</DIV>
> > <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Spray painting</DIV>
> > <DIV><BR></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=2>Can someone give me some idea what is the best way to
go
> > about painting my 1600, I want to do as much of the work as possible...
like
> > stripping bogging etc. I saw you guys talking about sand blasting and
acid
> > dipping not too long ago. Can someone tell me the pros and cons
of doing
> > these. Also which parts of the car are hard to get back on once you
have
> > stripped it? I know things like the headlining would be
hard.</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=2>Also does anyone know a place in melbourne which
would sell
> > front spoilers? Do I need to think about airflow for an intercooler
(planning
> > on getting a turbo).</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=2>thanks in advance</FONT></DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
> > <DIV><FONT
> >
size=2>Richard</FONT></DIV><BR>--membersozdat-------------------------------
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