Pele,
Cold starting problems are tough to find as there are so many things that
have to be working properly.
I'll assume that the items you have listed are to spec, chokes and
accelerator pumps operational, ignition timing is correct etc.
What carbies are you running, not that it makes a lot of difference starting
but SU's need chokes working more than webers.
Things that cause difficult cold starts:
low cranking rpm - starter dieing, high compression engine with stock
starter, battery dieing
low coil voltage - when the S2 dizzy was fitted was the coil from the S2
used and were the ballast resister wires bridged when the BR was removed,
they have to be I guess or it wouldn't start at all.
dizzy cap cracked or badly corroded contacts or the graphite contact jammed
or missing (believe me, I've seen both of these and didn't they take some
time to find). Dizzy problems cause the spark to jump down the wrong HT
leads when cranking. Likewise 1/2 shot high tension leads will cause hard
starts for similar reason. Electricity will always take the path to earth
that has the least resistance.
plug gap wide or wrong heat range - Bosch Supers are pre-gapped plugs and
are usually correct for a L engine but I still check them. NGK BP5ES or
BP6ES, Bosch W8DC (my preferred budget plug) suite most L's.
inlet manifold leaking air - engine needs vacuum to start cold (much more so
than if it's hot)
blown diaphragm in brake booster - another hard one to find. To test
booster, engine needs to be at operating temperature. Pump brakes with
engine off until pedal is hard. Push pedal down and start engine, if the
booster is working properly the pedal will drop a bit shortly after the
engine fires.
leaking inline valve - To test inline valve, hold brake on with engine at
idle, take foot off brake and note any change in rpm. The engine rpm should
be the same with pedal held down as it is with foot off the pedal. The
engine rpm should rise slightly if you pump pedal continuously.
cam timing retarded - easy to check with rocker cover removed. Refer to
manual for destructions.
rocker clearances tight - especially inlets, they should be checked every
12K miles not only when they're obviously noisy.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, 11 April 2001 10:53
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: starting problems
Gday
When i start my car in the mornings it takes much longer than it should to
get
running. I have the choke out and press the acclelerator a few times then
turn
the key but for about the first 5 times it just tries to start, then it gets
a
bit of an engine noise then by about 10 tries it starts up and i rev it for
a
minute then its ok. The colder it is the harder it is to start. Once the
engine
is up to temperature it runs fine. I just had the carbies reconditioned and
tuned and a series 2 bluebird dizzy and new spark plugs were put in today.
What
else could be the problem?
Pele.
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