Mick,

The factory tacho seems to get a few problems when used with the S2 B/B Dissy. Trevor Pooley had hassles with his and only solved it by changing tachos to impulse type rather than series type.

The bottom end with a 76 should be very sweet with the right setup. You should be able to get an L20B to idle at 600 rpm with a 76 and 45’s if set up correctly.

Recurving is achieved by changing spring tension/s and bob weights in the distributor. By having two springs of differenet rates it is possible to make a two stage advance curve. Heavier weights bring the total advance in earlier and the stop positions determine the total amount of a advance.

The silicon grease is applied so you get a complete coverage over the module, allowing heat to be transferred.

Make the heat shield from reasonable thin alloy so it fits between the inlet manifold and over the extractors. This also stops any fuel leaks going onto hot exhausts.

Cheers

Feral Errol

 

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mick ralph
Sent: Thursday, 24 January 2002 7:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: B/Bird dissy and heat shields

 

I have just put a new ignition module in my BB s2 dissy.

Bosch of course..

I was hoping that it would take the flicker out of my tacho and clean up the bottom end a bit.. Nothing doing!!  hehe  U can't really clean up the bottom end with a 76 cam and 45 webers i guess. And the tacho (factory SSS) must just be stuffed but still usuable.

Questions out of interest.

I've heard of recurving the dissy. is this done on the ign module or what?

They give u a tiny little bag of insulating goo to sit the module on, i guess to shield it from heat. How much of this stuff should u use?. i don't think there was enough.

Is having extractors nearby likely to provide too much heat?

Should i build the heat shield for the webers with a special shield for the dissy?

cheers

mick

Gold Coast rules - at the moment!!

www.datsun1600.freeservers.com


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