Mark,

Is there any way of testing that it is indeed the guides?.. and how do I 
go about replacing the guides?.. or is that a job for the experts?
Regards,

Dave

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

On 4/4/02, 10:56:59 PM, "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote 
regarding Re: L24 troubles. Please help:


> hi, the valves could also be sticking open because of the guides. my bro
> had this problem  and all it needed  was two new valve guides.


> mark k
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Lamb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 8:40 PM
> Subject: RE: L24 troubles. Please help


> > >Have just had a bit of a fiddle with the head and have found that the
> > >exhaust valves on 4 and 5 ARE sticking open. OK fine. What do I do about
> > >that? If I have to take it to someone to get it fixed then I may aswell
> > >get them to shave the head while they're at it.
> >
> > Valves are probably bent, replacement is the only option.  Two issues
> > to be considered when shaving an L-series head: CR and camchain/valve
> > train geometry.  Stock thickness of an L6 head is 108mm (some might
> > say 107.9 :-) ), so that's really your starting point - determine
> > whether the head has already been machined at all and go from there.
> >
> > >Oh and as a matter of interest I did a leakage test on the head too.. As
> > >in rotated the cam til both valves were closed on number x, then flipped
> > >the head and filled the combustion chamber with turps. Let it sit for a
> > >while and saw if the level of the turps went down. If it did then had a
> > >squiz in the intake/exhaust 'tubes' for signs of wetness. Found that
> > >there is small amounts of leakage from all comb.cham's. As in it would
> > >take approximately 5 mins to drain all the turps out give or take a
> > >minute. Most common is leakage through both intake and exhaust valves.
> > >At a guess i'm thinking that this is acceptable given that the 
combustion
> > >will also force the valve closed even more and that it would've taken 5
> > >mins to drain out?.. or is it unacceptable?
> >
> > Personally in these sort of circumstances I would take the head
> > completely apart and have the thing checked out throroughly - all the
> > valves checked for straightness, refaced, tank the head (clean),
> > inspect for corrosion damage, cracking, etc, etc  If the $$$ are
> > tight then I would at least have the valves checked.
> >
> >
> >
> > >So yeah.. part of the problem found.. where to from here?
> > >Regards,
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> > >
> > >On 4/4/02, 2:47:01 AM, "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote
> > >regarding RE: L24 troubles. Please help:
> > >
> > >
> > >>  No worries Richard,
> > >
> > >>  We all make them and they are embarrassing at times.
> > >>  I see the dramas with the engine in question still isn't resolved
> though.
> > >We
> > >>  are missing something that's hard to pick here, can't put my finger on
> it
> > >>  though, I guess it would be tad easier if I was 500 miles closer to
> it..
> > >
> > >>  regards
> > >>  Terry
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>  -----Original Message-----
> > >>  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard
> Clough
> > >>  Sent: Tuesday, 2 April 2002 8:29 PM
> > >>  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>  Subject: Re: L24 troubles. Please help
> > >
> > >
> > >>  Terry
> > >>  I stand corrected.  I must have had brain fade.  I was thinking of
> Mazda
> > >>  SNA engine not the proverbial Datsun SOHC Lseries.
> > >>  ----- Original Message -----
> > >>  From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>  To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>  Sent: Monday, 1 April 2002 21:13 PM
> > >>  Subject: RE: L24 troubles. Please help
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >


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