Guides are really a DIY item, for one they are normally press fit and two they are deliberately made undersize and have to be precision machined to fit the valve.
regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mark krawczuk Sent: Friday, 5 April 2002 8:09 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: L24 troubles. Please help i`m not 100 % sure but you will have to take the valves out, look for any excessive wear along side the edge of the valve stem, then get a torch ,hook , and pencil......er... sorry wrong group......., make it just a torch and shine it down the guide, have alook for any thing thats not right, galled up metal,fragments etc. i know of one guy that replaced some valve guides in a gemini head, but for some reason it started to leak oil from between the valve guide and head!!. the guides are a press/knock in fit. i sorta wouldnt recommend doing it your self. if you did, put some 262 loctite stud lock on the guide and in guide bore before putting guide in. some times they also put a k-line insert in, which is a very thin brass sleeve, they ream out the guide,then put this in. have u put the valves in a electric drill and spun it to see if the valves is bent? i dont think that it would be worth the hassel of doing it yorself. i just pring mine to a head specialist. mark k ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Andrews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 12:38 AM Subject: Re: L24 troubles. Please help > Mark, > > Is there any way of testing that it is indeed the guides?.. and how do I > go about replacing the guides?.. or is that a job for the experts? > Regards, > > Dave > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< > > On 4/4/02, 10:56:59 PM, "mark krawczuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote > regarding Re: L24 troubles. Please help: > > > > hi, the valves could also be sticking open because of the guides. my bro > > had this problem and all it needed was two new valve guides. > > > > mark k > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Steve Lamb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 8:40 PM > > Subject: RE: L24 troubles. Please help > > > > > >Have just had a bit of a fiddle with the head and have found that the > > > >exhaust valves on 4 and 5 ARE sticking open. OK fine. What do I do about > > > >that? If I have to take it to someone to get it fixed then I may aswell > > > >get them to shave the head while they're at it. > > > > > > Valves are probably bent, replacement is the only option. Two issues > > > to be considered when shaving an L-series head: CR and camchain/valve > > > train geometry. Stock thickness of an L6 head is 108mm (some might > > > say 107.9 :-) ), so that's really your starting point - determine > > > whether the head has already been machined at all and go from there. > > > > > > >Oh and as a matter of interest I did a leakage test on the head too.. As > > > >in rotated the cam til both valves were closed on number x, then flipped > > > >the head and filled the combustion chamber with turps. Let it sit for a > > > >while and saw if the level of the turps went down. If it did then had a > > > >squiz in the intake/exhaust 'tubes' for signs of wetness. Found that > > > >there is small amounts of leakage from all comb.cham's. As in it would > > > >take approximately 5 mins to drain all the turps out give or take a > > > >minute. Most common is leakage through both intake and exhaust valves. > > > >At a guess i'm thinking that this is acceptable given that the > combustion > > > >will also force the valve closed even more and that it would've taken 5 > > > >mins to drain out?.. or is it unacceptable? > > > > > > Personally in these sort of circumstances I would take the head > > > completely apart and have the thing checked out throroughly - all the > > > valves checked for straightness, refaced, tank the head (clean), > > > inspect for corrosion damage, cracking, etc, etc If the $$$ are > > > tight then I would at least have the valves checked. > > > > > > > > > > > > >So yeah.. part of the problem found.. where to from here? > > > >Regards, > > > > > > > >Dave > > > > > > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Original Message <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< > > > > > > > >On 4/4/02, 2:47:01 AM, "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote > > > >regarding RE: L24 troubles. Please help: > > > > > > > > > > > >> No worries Richard, > > > > > > > >> We all make them and they are embarrassing at times. > > > >> I see the dramas with the engine in question still isn't resolved > > though. > > > >We > > > >> are missing something that's hard to pick here, can't put my finger on > > it > > > >> though, I guess it would be tad easier if I was 500 miles closer to > > it.. > > > > > > > >> regards > > > >> Terry > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > > > >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard > > Clough > > > >> Sent: Tuesday, 2 April 2002 8:29 PM > > > >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >> Subject: Re: L24 troubles. Please help > > > > > > > > > > > >> Terry > > > >> I stand corrected. I must have had brain fade. I was thinking of > > Mazda > > > >> SNA engine not the proverbial Datsun SOHC Lseries. > > > >> ----- Original Message ----- > > > >> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >> Sent: Monday, 1 April 2002 21:13 PM > > > >> Subject: RE: L24 troubles. Please help > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
