Robbie,

Before you go forking out a load of hard earned money - take the car to a
good wheel alignment guy.

I would suggest looking at your alignmet settings prior to changing
components. If you still use the car as a daily driver, anything you do will
be a comprimise, but I would be aiming for loads of positive castor (5
degrees if you can get it - but this will make the steering quite quite
heavy) and up to 4.5 degrees negative camber (no good for the street
though - so adjustable strut tops could be a good option, depends how
serious you want to get.)

Of course your ride height and quality of components like shocks will come
into play - but it would be interesting to find out what your wheel
alignment settings are right now before you make any adjustments. At
leastthen you will know what adjustments are working and what adjustments
have little or no effect.

Mark.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robbie vidler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 4:45 PM
Subject: suspension questions


> had my first hill climb in my 1975 datsun 180b SSS on sunday... the car
got
> around in an ok time despite handling like a dog ;)
>
> it was understeering big time when i thought i'd have trouble keeping it
> from over steering, however it rarely let go of the rear end.
> the front springs are to soft and the whole car in my opinion sits to
high.
>
> i am wondering how much lower then standard can i go 2.5" or 3". the car
has
> unknown front shocks and munroe adjustables on the rear, i don't know hwo
to
> adjust them though.
>
> after a suspension inspection these items were suggested.
>
> Rh inner tie rod end
> lower inners
> radius rod bushes
> lh lower ball joint
> idler arm
> rear lower arm bushes
> rear shocks
> quote
> $1000
>
> this sounded a little excessive to me, and the rear shocks appear ok to
me?
>
> i'm wondering which of these things i could do myself and what else could
i
> do to make the car more determined to turn in?
>
> thanks robbie.
>

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