Cam If you are lifting inside wheels its usually because the springs are too soft on the opposite "axle". If it lifts a front, the rears are too soft and vice versa. This would also explain the loss of traction.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Cam McKinnon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, 29 October 2002 23:09 PM Subject: Re: suspension questions > It's interesting too hear about the rear bar....I think from memory TR > suggests the same thing i.e. don't use one. > > Re the koni's, they were just off the shelf, but as an indication at full > hard setting (rebound) were I have them set at the moment, they are that > stiff that it takes a couple of minutes just too pull them out by hand so > you can bolt them to the A arm. > > I'm starting to think that I've over-tightened the shock settings and as the > body rolls on a corner and lifts the inside wheel, the shock is holding that > inside wheel up off the ground taking away my precious traction. > > It was quite sickening to see a AU XR6 (admittedly a full-on Procar GTP > production race-car) rip car-lengths out of me in the corners .....lucky the > ol' datto had the legs in the straights to rip a dozen car lengths back out > of him :)) > > Cheers, > > Cam > CM510 > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Alford" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 10:30 PM > Subject: Re: suspension questions > > > > Cam, > > > > I agree with you - the rear end of the 1600 is very difficult to set-up, > > that's a big part of the reason why I am now building the Sunny (as a race > > car), the live rear end is easier to get right - plus it should be at > least > > 60-80kg's lighter :)) > > > > In regars to the konis - have you had them valved to suit the springs? I > was > > running 800 pound springs in my 1600, and only had them set to half a turn > > (Koni Yellow's) from full soft - but they were revalved from new to suit > the > > springs. > > > > The wheel alignment settings are simialr to what I ran. I was running 1 > > degree neg camber at rest with zero toe - so that should be pretty right - > > but I was only running a naturally aspirated FJ - so no where near the > > horsepower you are trying to put down (another reason for the sunny - this > > time we are FJ turbo - with plenty of mods) > > > > Another thing you could try is no rear bar at all. I know this sounds odd > > but I tried it at the last race meeting I ran at Eastern creek. I was only > > running a soft bar to begin with, but when I dropped the bar off, I picked > > up just over 1.5 seconds a lap! This was done on the same day, same > weather > > conditions, same tyre pressures, same shock settings. Only difference was > > the rear bar was removed. I think it allowed the back end to be a little > > more compliant with the road - it was certainly a softer set up. > > > > I would be wary of going to soft with the springs, it's only going to > induce > > more squat = more camber = more wheel spin. > > > > I actually changed the pick up points on my swing arms, then added > eccentric > > (spelling???) bushes for adjustment of camber and toe. But at the end of > the > > day, my setting were similar to yours so it shouldn't make much > difference. > > > > It was hard to set up the rear end with a naturally aspirated FJ - I don't > > envy you trying to do it with the horsepower you have - goodluck. > > > > > > MArk. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Cam McKinnon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 11:31 PM > > Subject: Re: suspension questions > > > > > > > What do you think about he rear suspension Mark? > > > > > > I'm just about over the arse end of a 1600, IMHO a big handicap on the > > race > > > track. > > > > > > I have 800lb rears with the koni's screwed up as hard as they will go > with > > > say .75 deg neg camber and zero toe and mid setting rear bar. (with > locked > > > R3.9 and decent 225/50/15 Rspec bags) > > > > > > At any point other than straight ahead it's wheel spin city from the > > moment > > > of any power application. As you'd know if you are spinning....they are > > > winning. > > > > > > I'm thinking of going back to a softer rear spring and shock with a > firmer > > > rear bar, > > > > > > Ideas?? > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > > > Cam > > > CM510 > > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Mark Alford" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 11:21 PM > > > Subject: Re: suspension questions > > > > > > > > > > Robbie, > > > > > > > > Before you go forking out a load of hard earned money - take the car > to > > a > > > > good wheel alignment guy. > > > > > > > > I would suggest looking at your alignmet settings prior to changing > > > > components. If you still use the car as a daily driver, anything you > do > > > will > > > > be a comprimise, but I would be aiming for loads of positive castor (5 > > > > degrees if you can get it - but this will make the steering quite > quite > > > > heavy) and up to 4.5 degrees negative camber (no good for the street > > > > though - so adjustable strut tops could be a good option, depends how > > > > serious you want to get.) > > > > > > > > Of course your ride height and quality of components like shocks will > > come > > > > into play - but it would be interesting to find out what your wheel > > > > alignment settings are right now before you make any adjustments. At > > > > leastthen you will know what adjustments are working and what > > adjustments > > > > have little or no effect. > > > > > > > > Mark. > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Robbie vidler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 4:45 PM > > > > Subject: suspension questions > > > > > > > > > > > > > had my first hill climb in my 1975 datsun 180b SSS on sunday... the > > car > > > > got > > > > > around in an ok time despite handling like a dog ;) > > > > > > > > > > it was understeering big time when i thought i'd have trouble > keeping > > it > > > > > from over steering, however it rarely let go of the rear end. > > > > > the front springs are to soft and the whole car in my opinion sits > to > > > > high. > > > > > > > > > > i am wondering how much lower then standard can i go 2.5" or 3". the > > car > > > > has > > > > > unknown front shocks and munroe adjustables on the rear, i don't > know > > > hwo > > > > to > > > > > adjust them though. > > > > > > > > > > after a suspension inspection these items were suggested. > > > > > > > > > > Rh inner tie rod end > > > > > lower inners > > > > > radius rod bushes > > > > > lh lower ball joint > > > > > idler arm > > > > > rear lower arm bushes > > > > > rear shocks > > > > > quote > > > > > $1000 > > > > > > > > > > this sounded a little excessive to me, and the rear shocks appear ok > > to > > > > me? > > > > > > > > > > i'm wondering which of these things i could do myself and what else > > > could > > > > i > > > > > do to make the car more determined to turn in? > > > > > > > > > > thanks robbie. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/membersozdat@;datascribe.com.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
