It's interesting too hear about the rear bar....I think from memory TR suggests the same thing i.e. don't use one.
Re the koni's, they were just off the shelf, but as an indication at full hard setting (rebound) were I have them set at the moment, they are that stiff that it takes a couple of minutes just too pull them out by hand so you can bolt them to the A arm. I'm starting to think that I've over-tightened the shock settings and as the body rolls on a corner and lifts the inside wheel, the shock is holding that inside wheel up off the ground taking away my precious traction. It was quite sickening to see a AU XR6 (admittedly a full-on Procar GTP production race-car) rip car-lengths out of me in the corners .....lucky the ol' datto had the legs in the straights to rip a dozen car lengths back out of him :)) Cheers, Cam CM510 www.sprite.com.au/cm510 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Alford" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 10:30 PM Subject: Re: suspension questions > Cam, > > I agree with you - the rear end of the 1600 is very difficult to set-up, > that's a big part of the reason why I am now building the Sunny (as a race > car), the live rear end is easier to get right - plus it should be at least > 60-80kg's lighter :)) > > In regars to the konis - have you had them valved to suit the springs? I was > running 800 pound springs in my 1600, and only had them set to half a turn > (Koni Yellow's) from full soft - but they were revalved from new to suit the > springs. > > The wheel alignment settings are simialr to what I ran. I was running 1 > degree neg camber at rest with zero toe - so that should be pretty right - > but I was only running a naturally aspirated FJ - so no where near the > horsepower you are trying to put down (another reason for the sunny - this > time we are FJ turbo - with plenty of mods) > > Another thing you could try is no rear bar at all. I know this sounds odd > but I tried it at the last race meeting I ran at Eastern creek. I was only > running a soft bar to begin with, but when I dropped the bar off, I picked > up just over 1.5 seconds a lap! This was done on the same day, same weather > conditions, same tyre pressures, same shock settings. Only difference was > the rear bar was removed. I think it allowed the back end to be a little > more compliant with the road - it was certainly a softer set up. > > I would be wary of going to soft with the springs, it's only going to induce > more squat = more camber = more wheel spin. > > I actually changed the pick up points on my swing arms, then added eccentric > (spelling???) bushes for adjustment of camber and toe. But at the end of the > day, my setting were similar to yours so it shouldn't make much difference. > > It was hard to set up the rear end with a naturally aspirated FJ - I don't > envy you trying to do it with the horsepower you have - goodluck. > > > MArk. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cam McKinnon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 11:31 PM > Subject: Re: suspension questions > > > > What do you think about he rear suspension Mark? > > > > I'm just about over the arse end of a 1600, IMHO a big handicap on the > race > > track. > > > > I have 800lb rears with the koni's screwed up as hard as they will go with > > say .75 deg neg camber and zero toe and mid setting rear bar. (with locked > > R3.9 and decent 225/50/15 Rspec bags) > > > > At any point other than straight ahead it's wheel spin city from the > moment > > of any power application. As you'd know if you are spinning....they are > > winning. > > > > I'm thinking of going back to a softer rear spring and shock with a firmer > > rear bar, > > > > Ideas?? > > > > Cheers, > > > > Cam > > CM510 > > www.sprite.com.au/cm510 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Mark Alford" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 11:21 PM > > Subject: Re: suspension questions > > > > > > > Robbie, > > > > > > Before you go forking out a load of hard earned money - take the car to > a > > > good wheel alignment guy. > > > > > > I would suggest looking at your alignmet settings prior to changing > > > components. If you still use the car as a daily driver, anything you do > > will > > > be a comprimise, but I would be aiming for loads of positive castor (5 > > > degrees if you can get it - but this will make the steering quite quite > > > heavy) and up to 4.5 degrees negative camber (no good for the street > > > though - so adjustable strut tops could be a good option, depends how > > > serious you want to get.) > > > > > > Of course your ride height and quality of components like shocks will > come > > > into play - but it would be interesting to find out what your wheel > > > alignment settings are right now before you make any adjustments. At > > > leastthen you will know what adjustments are working and what > adjustments > > > have little or no effect. > > > > > > Mark. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Robbie vidler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 4:45 PM > > > Subject: suspension questions > > > > > > > > > > had my first hill climb in my 1975 datsun 180b SSS on sunday... the > car > > > got > > > > around in an ok time despite handling like a dog ;) > > > > > > > > it was understeering big time when i thought i'd have trouble keeping > it > > > > from over steering, however it rarely let go of the rear end. > > > > the front springs are to soft and the whole car in my opinion sits to > > > high. > > > > > > > > i am wondering how much lower then standard can i go 2.5" or 3". the > car > > > has > > > > unknown front shocks and munroe adjustables on the rear, i don't know > > hwo > > > to > > > > adjust them though. > > > > > > > > after a suspension inspection these items were suggested. > > > > > > > > Rh inner tie rod end > > > > lower inners > > > > radius rod bushes > > > > lh lower ball joint > > > > idler arm > > > > rear lower arm bushes > > > > rear shocks > > > > quote > > > > $1000 > > > > > > > > this sounded a little excessive to me, and the rear shocks appear ok > to > > > me? > > > > > > > > i'm wondering which of these things i could do myself and what else > > could > > > i > > > > do to make the car more determined to turn in? > > > > > > > > thanks robbie. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/membersozdat@;datascribe.com.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
