No, $93 aus... That's pretty cheap.. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of maldat Sent: Saturday, 30 November 2002 2:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing
$93usd for a hammer gun is too much.(unless its a usa made one) The made in china ones here cost $100nz (about $50usd)they work well everyday for a year then buy a new one..(thats in a wreckers yard using all day everyday) But if youre in ozzie the NZ$ and the ozzie$ are much the same these days Malcolm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geordie Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 4:09 PM Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > I am a big bloke, and I had to do the flywheel bolts up on my SR20 to 140 > ft/lb. It was hard yakka for a big boofy bloke like me. I had trouble, not > only that, but also with busting 3x sockets. > 230-250 ft/lb off a rattle gun could be applied by a 5 year old using two > hands. > I bought my rattle gun off Ebay for $93 It pulls 250ft/lb and has done > everything I've chucked at it so far without busting a single socket. Just > pull the trigger and wait until the nut comes off. Can't get much easier > than that. > > Free Shameless Plug here... > If anyone wants a rattle gun, the guy I bought mine off was > [EMAIL PROTECTED] a guy name Andreas Muller. This guy is cool, > and the rattle gun I bought was $60 cheaper than anything in the shops. > This guy also has some other cool tools as well!!! :) > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd > Sent: Saturday, 30 November 2002 2:01 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > > > I'd have to think for while on how you can safely stop the axle turning if > you have to jack the car up - a decent wheel brace like 70's Falcons have > may be able to fit in the studs and have enough length to contact the > floor - but you've also got to keep it in place somehow - two round surfaces > together, may not be ideal. Oh and don't pull the handbrake on like a mate > of mine tried many years ago, it will go bang and rip the shoes "clean off" > (in my Clint Eastwood accent) the backing plate. 240 ft/lbs is a lot of > torque and on that, I've never seen a rattle gun in the average car garage > that goes near that, I spose there are truck ones though. > > Another problem with a rattle gun? Does Newtons law about relativity apply > to them, cause if it does then you've got another problem. I don't know too > many people who can direct pull 240 ft/lbs, that's why a 3 ft bar (assuming > 1 ft ratchet) you'd have at least 2 ft leverage or is it the full 3 ft, > probably something in between, (my engineering is a bit poor in this area) > so you're only pulling somewhere between 80 ft/lbs up to 120 ft/lb at most > and most ppl can manage that, mind you flat on your back under a lowered > 1600 on the muffler side - yeah, it wasn't meant to be easy. I'd assume 1hr > labour per side would be what it costs at the garage - I think you'd get the > bearings off the shaft and new ones pressed on in an hour with the right > tools (and a bit of now how), and allow $15 per side for a new nut > (43262-21000). > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb > Sent: Sunday, 1 December 2002 7:49 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing > > > Thanks for the help terry, > > I've taken both the dive shafts from the hubs. and the noise is definatly > coming from the suspension arm... Its really annoying I've got a torque > wrench (bout foot long) and it kept clicking so I turned the torque up as > high as possible.... then I bent the hammer which was stoping the studs > turning :).... So do you think its best to do it with the wheel on? I dont > think Im going to have much luck with it off. Its just theres not much room > as its lowered and the torque wrench or bar will hit the muffler. I can take > it to my friends house with a pit, which might make it easier to get force > on the wheel. > > Least I'm pushing the car onto the ground and not lifting it up. Maybe this > is a job for the mechanics after all.... How much would they charge?? (lol, > sure I do give up easy) > > Anyway thanks for the help > > Richard > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 5:29 PM > Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > Richard, > > > > I crook wheel bearing will vary the noise (pitch) depending wether under > > load or not - so if you do a tyre warm up weave you'll have the noise on > the > > side under load - bugger when they're both shot. > > > > To get that supa dupa tight nut off (240 ft/lbs) in a home garage you have > > to have the car on the ground. Get a good quality ratchet and socket (27mm > > or 1 1/16") and a 3 foot piece of water pipe or breaker bar. You can > nearly > > lift the car off the ground (drivers side) gettin' that nut to budge and > the > > reverse on the pass side. To remove the axle you are best to use a slide > > hammer i.e. plate or decent piece of angle iron drilled to match a couple > of > > wheel studs and cabamm. A little heat around the hub can sometimes be > > required to free up a stubborn axle. Make sure you note the stamping (A, B > > or C) on the spacer between the axle so you re-fit it back into the same > > side. The rest of it is covered pretty well in the manual. > > > > A shot carrier bearing will normally whine all the time i.e. pitch changes > > with road speed and not load unless it's the pinion bearing. Likewise for > > unis but the noise from them is very different, more a rumble than a > whining > > noise and the only way to check unis is by securing one side and rocking > the > > other side and looking for play in the end caps of the joint. You can't > get > > much of an idea from just jacking the wheels off the ground and running a > > 1600 IRS as a uni rearend is that noisy in brand new condition. > > > > Good luck with it, > > > > regards > > Terry > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb > > Sent: Sunday, 1 December 2002 7:05 AM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > Nevermind, Gregorys put it in Rear suspension section... I woulda thaught > it > > was driveline. Now I just gotta work out a way of getting the nut that > holds > > the bearing together off... its very tight. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Richard Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 9:59 AM > > Subject: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > > I've recently had a kinda bearing noise (thats getting louder and > louder) > > > coming from the rear of my car. Can someone tell me which bearing its > most > > > likely to be? I can turn the wheel but the noise seems to come out of > > > somewhere on the left side. > > > > > > I've got the rear brakes off and Im trying to get to the bearing which > is > > > inside the swing arm. Im not 100% sure its not one of the bearings in > the > > > diff. > > > > > > is there any way of doing this without bleeding the brakes? :) I hate > > doing > > > that > > > > > > Richard > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
