Sounds like rattle guns have evolved along with everything else I spose - I will have to check them out, as I'm getting lazy in my old age, and if there's an easier way, then I'm all for it. You probably weren't using good qual sockets, Sidchrome, snap on and dowidat don't break often.
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Geordie Smith Sent: Saturday, 30 November 2002 2:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing Importance: High I am a big bloke, and I had to do the flywheel bolts up on my SR20 to 140 ft/lb. It was hard yakka for a big boofy bloke like me. I had trouble, not only that, but also with busting 3x sockets. 230-250 ft/lb off a rattle gun could be applied by a 5 year old using two hands. I bought my rattle gun off Ebay for $93 It pulls 250ft/lb and has done everything I've chucked at it so far without busting a single socket. Just pull the trigger and wait until the nut comes off. Can't get much easier than that. Free Shameless Plug here... If anyone wants a rattle gun, the guy I bought mine off was [EMAIL PROTECTED] a guy name Andreas Muller. This guy is cool, and the rattle gun I bought was $60 cheaper than anything in the shops. This guy also has some other cool tools as well!!! :) -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd Sent: Saturday, 30 November 2002 2:01 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing I'd have to think for while on how you can safely stop the axle turning if you have to jack the car up - a decent wheel brace like 70's Falcons have may be able to fit in the studs and have enough length to contact the floor - but you've also got to keep it in place somehow - two round surfaces together, may not be ideal. Oh and don't pull the handbrake on like a mate of mine tried many years ago, it will go bang and rip the shoes "clean off" (in my Clint Eastwood accent) the backing plate. 240 ft/lbs is a lot of torque and on that, I've never seen a rattle gun in the average car garage that goes near that, I spose there are truck ones though. Another problem with a rattle gun? Does Newtons law about relativity apply to them, cause if it does then you've got another problem. I don't know too many people who can direct pull 240 ft/lbs, that's why a 3 ft bar (assuming 1 ft ratchet) you'd have at least 2 ft leverage or is it the full 3 ft, probably something in between, (my engineering is a bit poor in this area) so you're only pulling somewhere between 80 ft/lbs up to 120 ft/lb at most and most ppl can manage that, mind you flat on your back under a lowered 1600 on the muffler side - yeah, it wasn't meant to be easy. I'd assume 1hr labour per side would be what it costs at the garage - I think you'd get the bearings off the shaft and new ones pressed on in an hour with the right tools (and a bit of now how), and allow $15 per side for a new nut (43262-21000). regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb Sent: Sunday, 1 December 2002 7:49 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing Thanks for the help terry, I've taken both the dive shafts from the hubs. and the noise is definatly coming from the suspension arm... Its really annoying I've got a torque wrench (bout foot long) and it kept clicking so I turned the torque up as high as possible.... then I bent the hammer which was stoping the studs turning :).... So do you think its best to do it with the wheel on? I dont think Im going to have much luck with it off. Its just theres not much room as its lowered and the torque wrench or bar will hit the muffler. I can take it to my friends house with a pit, which might make it easier to get force on the wheel. Least I'm pushing the car onto the ground and not lifting it up. Maybe this is a job for the mechanics after all.... How much would they charge?? (lol, sure I do give up easy) Anyway thanks for the help Richard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 5:29 PM Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > Richard, > > I crook wheel bearing will vary the noise (pitch) depending wether under > load or not - so if you do a tyre warm up weave you'll have the noise on the > side under load - bugger when they're both shot. > > To get that supa dupa tight nut off (240 ft/lbs) in a home garage you have > to have the car on the ground. Get a good quality ratchet and socket (27mm > or 1 1/16") and a 3 foot piece of water pipe or breaker bar. You can nearly > lift the car off the ground (drivers side) gettin' that nut to budge and the > reverse on the pass side. To remove the axle you are best to use a slide > hammer i.e. plate or decent piece of angle iron drilled to match a couple of > wheel studs and cabamm. A little heat around the hub can sometimes be > required to free up a stubborn axle. Make sure you note the stamping (A, B > or C) on the spacer between the axle so you re-fit it back into the same > side. The rest of it is covered pretty well in the manual. > > A shot carrier bearing will normally whine all the time i.e. pitch changes > with road speed and not load unless it's the pinion bearing. Likewise for > unis but the noise from them is very different, more a rumble than a whining > noise and the only way to check unis is by securing one side and rocking the > other side and looking for play in the end caps of the joint. You can't get > much of an idea from just jacking the wheels off the ground and running a > 1600 IRS as a uni rearend is that noisy in brand new condition. > > Good luck with it, > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb > Sent: Sunday, 1 December 2002 7:05 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing > > > Nevermind, Gregorys put it in Rear suspension section... I woulda thaught it > was driveline. Now I just gotta work out a way of getting the nut that holds > the bearing together off... its very tight. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 9:59 AM > Subject: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > I've recently had a kinda bearing noise (thats getting louder and louder) > > coming from the rear of my car. Can someone tell me which bearing its most > > likely to be? I can turn the wheel but the noise seems to come out of > > somewhere on the left side. > > > > I've got the rear brakes off and Im trying to get to the bearing which is > > inside the swing arm. Im not 100% sure its not one of the bearings in the > > diff. > > > > is there any way of doing this without bleeding the brakes? :) I hate > doing > > that > > > > Richard > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
