My "SupaCheap Auto" rattle gun wont even undo tight wheel nuts. Forget them for anything like flywheels or rear axles. They are only good for wood workers.
You need to spend at least $250 to get a Cincinnatti or SP rattle gun if you are looking at 200 plus ft lbs. @ 100psi. ----- Original Message ----- From: "maldat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, 30 November 2002 14:40 PM Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing > $93usd for a hammer gun is too much.(unless its a usa made one) > > The made in china ones here cost $100nz (about $50usd)they work well > everyday for a year then buy a new one..(thats in a wreckers yard using all > day everyday) > But if youre in ozzie the NZ$ and the ozzie$ are much the same these days > Malcolm > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Geordie Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 4:09 PM > Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > I am a big bloke, and I had to do the flywheel bolts up on my SR20 to 140 > > ft/lb. It was hard yakka for a big boofy bloke like me. I had trouble, not > > only that, but also with busting 3x sockets. > > 230-250 ft/lb off a rattle gun could be applied by a 5 year old using two > > hands. > > I bought my rattle gun off Ebay for $93 It pulls 250ft/lb and has done > > everything I've chucked at it so far without busting a single socket. Just > > pull the trigger and wait until the nut comes off. Can't get much easier > > than that. > > > > Free Shameless Plug here... > > If anyone wants a rattle gun, the guy I bought mine off was > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] a guy name Andreas Muller. This guy is cool, > > and the rattle gun I bought was $60 cheaper than anything in the shops. > > This guy also has some other cool tools as well!!! :) > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd > > Sent: Saturday, 30 November 2002 2:01 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > I'd have to think for while on how you can safely stop the axle turning if > > you have to jack the car up - a decent wheel brace like 70's Falcons have > > may be able to fit in the studs and have enough length to contact the > > floor - but you've also got to keep it in place somehow - two round > surfaces > > together, may not be ideal. Oh and don't pull the handbrake on like a mate > > of mine tried many years ago, it will go bang and rip the shoes "clean > off" > > (in my Clint Eastwood accent) the backing plate. 240 ft/lbs is a lot of > > torque and on that, I've never seen a rattle gun in the average car garage > > that goes near that, I spose there are truck ones though. > > > > Another problem with a rattle gun? Does Newtons law about relativity apply > > to them, cause if it does then you've got another problem. I don't know > too > > many people who can direct pull 240 ft/lbs, that's why a 3 ft bar > (assuming > > 1 ft ratchet) you'd have at least 2 ft leverage or is it the full 3 ft, > > probably something in between, (my engineering is a bit poor in this area) > > so you're only pulling somewhere between 80 ft/lbs up to 120 ft/lb at most > > and most ppl can manage that, mind you flat on your back under a lowered > > 1600 on the muffler side - yeah, it wasn't meant to be easy. I'd assume > 1hr > > labour per side would be what it costs at the garage - I think you'd get > the > > bearings off the shaft and new ones pressed on in an hour with the right > > tools (and a bit of now how), and allow $15 per side for a new nut > > (43262-21000). > > > > regards > > Terry > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb > > Sent: Sunday, 1 December 2002 7:49 AM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > Thanks for the help terry, > > > > I've taken both the dive shafts from the hubs. and the noise is definatly > > coming from the suspension arm... Its really annoying I've got a torque > > wrench (bout foot long) and it kept clicking so I turned the torque up as > > high as possible.... then I bent the hammer which was stoping the studs > > turning :).... So do you think its best to do it with the wheel on? I dont > > think Im going to have much luck with it off. Its just theres not much > room > > as its lowered and the torque wrench or bar will hit the muffler. I can > take > > it to my friends house with a pit, which might make it easier to get force > > on the wheel. > > > > Least I'm pushing the car onto the ground and not lifting it up. Maybe > this > > is a job for the mechanics after all.... How much would they charge?? > (lol, > > sure I do give up easy) > > > > Anyway thanks for the help > > > > Richard > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 5:29 PM > > Subject: RE: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > > Richard, > > > > > > I crook wheel bearing will vary the noise (pitch) depending wether under > > > load or not - so if you do a tyre warm up weave you'll have the noise on > > the > > > side under load - bugger when they're both shot. > > > > > > To get that supa dupa tight nut off (240 ft/lbs) in a home garage you > have > > > to have the car on the ground. Get a good quality ratchet and socket > (27mm > > > or 1 1/16") and a 3 foot piece of water pipe or breaker bar. You can > > nearly > > > lift the car off the ground (drivers side) gettin' that nut to budge and > > the > > > reverse on the pass side. To remove the axle you are best to use a slide > > > hammer i.e. plate or decent piece of angle iron drilled to match a > couple > > of > > > wheel studs and cabamm. A little heat around the hub can sometimes be > > > required to free up a stubborn axle. Make sure you note the stamping (A, > B > > > or C) on the spacer between the axle so you re-fit it back into the same > > > side. The rest of it is covered pretty well in the manual. > > > > > > A shot carrier bearing will normally whine all the time i.e. pitch > changes > > > with road speed and not load unless it's the pinion bearing. Likewise > for > > > unis but the noise from them is very different, more a rumble than a > > whining > > > noise and the only way to check unis is by securing one side and rocking > > the > > > other side and looking for play in the end caps of the joint. You can't > > get > > > much of an idea from just jacking the wheels off the ground and running > a > > > 1600 IRS as a uni rearend is that noisy in brand new condition. > > > > > > Good luck with it, > > > > > > regards > > > Terry > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Webb > > > Sent: Sunday, 1 December 2002 7:05 AM > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Subject: Re: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > > > > Nevermind, Gregorys put it in Rear suspension section... I woulda > thaught > > it > > > was driveline. Now I just gotta work out a way of getting the nut that > > holds > > > the bearing together off... its very tight. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Richard Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 9:59 AM > > > Subject: Rear Wheel bearing > > > > > > > > > > I've recently had a kinda bearing noise (thats getting louder and > > louder) > > > > coming from the rear of my car. Can someone tell me which bearing its > > most > > > > likely to be? I can turn the wheel but the noise seems to come out of > > > > somewhere on the left side. > > > > > > > > I've got the rear brakes off and Im trying to get to the bearing which > > is > > > > inside the swing arm. Im not 100% sure its not one of the bearings in > > the > > > > diff. > > > > > > > > is there any way of doing this without bleeding the brakes? :) I hate > > > doing > > > > that > > > > > > > > Richard > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
