So the increase in reliability outway the power and torque? Hmmm... Reliability is very high on my agender with respect to rallying! Stroke:rod ratio?? What does thing mean? Cheers NAT
--- Brad Hallett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Depends on how big you want to go > > I personally would avoid the L20B crank and do a > combined bore/stroke > increase so as to maintain reliability and minimise > stroke:rod ratio and > also cylinder flex. > > I think you would gain a lot more in engine life, > reliability and revs > by stroking/boring the L18. Don't forget though > that this can probably > only take you to 2.0 litres. > > You can build a maximum Hp High torque L18 > Frankenstein that lasts one > event, or you can build a reliable smooth engine > that produces a little > less but is good useable grunt that oesn't need > rebuilding every run > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On > Behalf Of nat P. > Sent: Tuesday, 18 March 2003 7:19 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or ugly? > > > Thanks Brad, I was hoping you were online!! > Cheers NAT > > Do you think there is much of a Hp/Torque difference > between a L18block/L20 crank and a simple L18 bored > 30thou that can rev? > Cheers NAT > > > > --- Brad Hallett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > There are a lot of considerations to be taken into > > account Nat. Using > > L18 rods will result in poor angulation causing > > scuff. Eliminate this > > problem by using long rods and short pin heights. > > L20 crank can be used > > as mains can be ground down to fit. > > > > I personally think you are better off using an L18 > > crank and sroking it > > 4mm per throw, and boring the L18 block to get > > 1999cc. Need an L18W > > block though to handle the 89mm bore or use > sleeves. > > Remember that > > stroke is 4mm on throw meaning 8mm stroke > increase. > > Combine all this > > with long 240K rods and short pin height forgies > and > > you have a reliable > > revver. 4mm can be welded on saving you money on > > metal spraying. Make > > sure you get it all balanced and nitrided though. > > > > Cheers > > Brad > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On > > Behalf Of nat P. > > Sent: Tuesday, 18 March 2003 12:19 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or > ugly? > > > > > > But is that the only concern! What about revs? > Crank > > to piston angle? I dont know what are good figures > > and > > what are bad? Anyone? > > > > > > > > --- Kristian Walsham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > > > Nat, > > > The L20B crank has a main bearing journal > of > > > 59.95mm compared to > > > L16/L18 of 54.95mm. > > > > > > I think it`s possible to use a Z20 crank but not > > > sure. > > > > > > Kris. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "nat P." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 11:50 AM > > > Subject: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or ugly? > > > > > > > > > > Mornin all!! > > > > > > > > Has anybody put a L20 crank into a L18? I'm > > > thinking > > > > about doing for my rally car! Which will give > me > > > the > > > > most out of my 3 litre class! BUT I've heard > > > different > > > > things, Can someone tell me the pro and cons > of > > > such > > > > an act! > > > > Cheers NAT > > > > > > > > http://mobile.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! 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