It determines the angularity of the rod (for want of better wording) -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of nat P. Sent: Wednesday, 19 March 2003 12:02 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or ugly?
So the increase in reliability outway the power and torque? Hmmm... Reliability is very high on my agender with respect to rallying! Stroke:rod ratio?? What does thing mean? Cheers NAT --- Brad Hallett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Depends on how big you want to go > > I personally would avoid the L20B crank and do a > combined bore/stroke > increase so as to maintain reliability and minimise stroke:rod ratio > and also cylinder flex. > > I think you would gain a lot more in engine life, > reliability and revs > by stroking/boring the L18. Don't forget though > that this can probably > only take you to 2.0 litres. > > You can build a maximum Hp High torque L18 > Frankenstein that lasts one > event, or you can build a reliable smooth engine > that produces a little > less but is good useable grunt that oesn't need > rebuilding every run > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On > Behalf Of nat P. > Sent: Tuesday, 18 March 2003 7:19 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or ugly? > > > Thanks Brad, I was hoping you were online!! > Cheers NAT > > Do you think there is much of a Hp/Torque difference > between a L18block/L20 crank and a simple L18 bored > 30thou that can rev? > Cheers NAT > > > > --- Brad Hallett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > There are a lot of considerations to be taken into > > account Nat. Using > > L18 rods will result in poor angulation causing > > scuff. Eliminate this > > problem by using long rods and short pin heights. > > L20 crank can be used > > as mains can be ground down to fit. > > > > I personally think you are better off using an L18 > > crank and sroking it > > 4mm per throw, and boring the L18 block to get > > 1999cc. Need an L18W > > block though to handle the 89mm bore or use > sleeves. > > Remember that > > stroke is 4mm on throw meaning 8mm stroke > increase. > > Combine all this > > with long 240K rods and short pin height forgies > and > > you have a reliable > > revver. 4mm can be welded on saving you money on > > metal spraying. Make > > sure you get it all balanced and nitrided though. > > > > Cheers > > Brad > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On > > Behalf Of nat P. > > Sent: Tuesday, 18 March 2003 12:19 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or > ugly? > > > > > > But is that the only concern! What about revs? > Crank > > to piston angle? I dont know what are good figures > > and > > what are bad? Anyone? > > > > > > > > --- Kristian Walsham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > > > Nat, > > > The L20B crank has a main bearing journal > of > > > 59.95mm compared to > > > L16/L18 of 54.95mm. > > > > > > I think it`s possible to use a Z20 crank but not > > > sure. > > > > > > Kris. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "nat P." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 11:50 AM > > > Subject: L20 crank into L18? Good, bad or ugly? > > > > > > > > > > Mornin all!! > > > > > > > > Has anybody put a L20 crank into a L18? I'm > > > thinking > > > > about doing for my rally car! Which will give > me > > > the > > > > most out of my 3 litre class! BUT I've heard > > > different > > > > things, Can someone tell me the pro and cons > of > > > such > > > > an act! > > > > Cheers NAT > > > > > > > > http://mobile.yahoo.com.au - Yahoo! 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