Terry I had this problem where the control arm hit the inside of the disc.
I have grinded the end of the control arms. Could this be from clearance
issues or is it due to movement on the ball joint?

I assume if the ball joints were on the way out there would be movement when
you shake the wheel?

Thanks again

Chris King

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:53 PM
Subject: RE: 200B struts, disc & callipers question


> Stuey,
>
> There isn't as budget ventilated conversion for the 200B strut (that we
know
> of & Verada/Dunnydore combos etc require 1600/180B strut with 3" calliper
> bolt spacing, 200B has 3.5" spacing), however as Turbo boy says the solid
> rotors do a pretty good job on a 1600 especially in combo with R31 rear
> discs. I prefer the earlier 200B hubs as they are a tad wider but they do
> make the wheel offset a little more critical (100mm backspace is max with
a
> 6" rim as you'll fowl caster rods and/or standard guards). Brake pads are
> the secret to this combo working well, I've used a few and the best by far
> are Aussie Girlock (Alloy) with Ford pistons & Paged blue pads but these
are
> exy. Probably the best value for you're buck is Sumitomo twin spots with
> Bendix Ultimate pads, Sumitomo Toy 4 spots do grab real well but the wheel
> weight is way out of the square and I think you can only get Bendix Metal
> pads for these (I'm not a Metal fan). The only other problem with 200B
> rotors is that if you flog them they eventually warp discs unless I've got
> something real bad wrong with my setup as I've done a DBA Sports Rotor
this
> time, not real badly but still it's very annoying. The other thing is if
> you're using a 70 or earlier xmember (i.e. with tapered balljoints) they'd
> better be in good shape, otherwise the end of the control arms with munch
> the inside of your discs for lunch under heavy braking.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stuey Roberts
> Sent: Monday, 5 January 2004 8:44 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: 200B struts, disc & calipers question
>
>
> Hey mate, cheers for that quick reply, what spot are the hilux calipers???
> Also, how much would you want for the 240K ones, where abouts are you? im
in
> brisbane, out in bellbowrie....  Which calipers would be better, hilux or
> 240K??  Thanks again....stuey
>
>
> >From: Turbo Boy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: 200B struts, disc & calipers question
> >Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:53:28 +1100 (EST)
> >
> >Hey dude,
> >
> >at the moment I would stick purely with the solid rotors, they will work
> >really well and I've never had any problems with them.  Calipers there
are
> >two choices.  I have early 80's model hilux 4wd calipers on my 200B
struts
> >and they work a treat.  They bolt straight on and all you have to do is
> >bleed the brakes again.  You can also get a set of sumitomo twin spots of
a
> >240K.  They will also bolt straight on.  I actually have a set of these
> >that I want to part with if you are chasing some.
> >
> >Either or will suit your purpose and be a huge imporvement over the 1600
> >ones...................... no more brake fade.
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >Stuey Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >Hey there listers, im sorry to ask this again, but im now gonna stick
with
> >the 200B struts in my 1600. I have booked the old girl in to get all the
> >suspension done this thursday and this will be when the 200B struts go
into
> >the car first. Firstly is there anything that i should know about things
i
> >have to change for them to fit, i know that u have to swap them left to
> >right so that the calipers are at the front, is there anything else???
> >Also, i want to upgrade from the solid discs and calipers, but unsure of
> >models of discs to use, and then what calipers can go onto them. If
anyone
> >out there can give me some ideas it would be so greatly appriciated
hey...
> >Cause after i get the suspension done, i've gotta do the discs and
> >calipers,
> >then i can go and get my engineers certificate for the L20 and then im
very
> >happy...
> >Sorry for the rambling, but yeah..... Thanks again guys/girls... Stuey.
> >
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