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Firstly I assume you
have the correct thermostat for the engine and it is in working
order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C
thermostat.
The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines.
On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the cap end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block inlet side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel and fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You may have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half fill the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air from the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so the coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top the coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain the coolant level in the funnel at a constant level. Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water pump pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the coolant from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the funnel. At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised 450 -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure of approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system and the pump must be replaced. Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque or cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some cavitation. If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in the funnel rather like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank. If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type you are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will dissapear. Cheers
Feral Errol
www.datrats.com.au
Basically the thermostat opens at 82
degrees, but my car will warm up to 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at
the lights for a little bit and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on… Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won’t run any cooler than
90… It is an Alloy two row radiator with
similar dimensions to the std 1600 one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a
recovery tank.. The recovery tank never has hot
water in it. There is never enough pressure to let water into the recovery tank
even though the temp is so high.. It has me very
confused. Also another strange thing is that
the level of water in the radiator always seems to drop to the same level
(around the height of the top outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You
can fill it up to the top when its cold but then once
you drive it and then take the cap off again the next day it is low
again! The oil is still oily and the water
is still watery so I don’t think it’s a head gasket.. Any other ideas or
suggestions?? I have been told to try a bigger
thermo but if it wont even cool down to near 82ish when
I’m cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo
help?? Cheers, Mark. Ps I have tried two different temp
gauges they both told the same story.. --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ --------------------------------------------------------------------- |
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