is the thermostat geniune nissan? mine came over from japan with a 88deg i put in a 82deg out of the CA16 pulsar because i used the different thermo outlet as well, i run a cross flow style radiator (not same side, as standard) the radiator guy next door said only use geniune thermostat's as the tridon and others are shit! u should see my old EA it's got a 93deg thermo as standard you should see the temp go up and down as the thermostat opens and closes
have you had the radiator cleaned out, properly with a tank off and they push blades through the fins. to clean them. when the thermo opens on my CA the top hose gets quite hard. and i notice that the temp slowly drops. heath ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, 15 February 2005 7:13 Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem > Thanks for the ideas guys.. > I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of the cylinders > because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about the level of the top > hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of black watery stuff out > of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange.. > I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the motor you can > see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. > The thermostat i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is right. > The motor runs well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. I think that is just > my dirty plugs though.. > I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot blacker then 1 and > 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty type color.. > > Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? > Thanks, > Mark > > > > > > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and it > > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C > > thermostat. > > > > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines. > > > > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the > > cap > > end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block inlet > > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel and > > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You may > > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half fill > > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air from > > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so the > > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top > > the > > coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain the > > coolant level in the funnel at a constant level. > > > > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water > > pump > > pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the coolant > > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the funnel. > > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised 450 > > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure of > > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow > > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system and > > the pump must be replaced. > > > > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and > > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque or > > cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some > > cavitation. > > If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in the funnel > > rather > > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank. > > > > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type you > > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or > > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will > > dissapear. > > > > Cheers > > Feral Errol > > www.datrats.com.au > > > > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm up > > to > > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little bit > > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on. > > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won't run any cooler than 90. > > It is an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std 1600 > > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank.. > > The recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough > > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is so > > high.. It has me very confused. > > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the radiator > > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top > > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to the > > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap off > > again the next day it is low again! > > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don't think > > it's a head gasket.. > > Any other ideas or suggestions?? > > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool down > > to > > near 82ish when I'm cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo help?? > > Cheers, > > Mark. > > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same > > story.. > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. 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