Thanks for the ideas guys.. I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of the cylinders because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about the level of the top hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of black watery stuff out of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange.. I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the motor you can see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. The thermostat i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is right. The motor runs well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. I think that is just my dirty plugs though.. I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot blacker then 1 and 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty type color..
Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? Thanks, Mark > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and it > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C > thermostat. > > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines. > > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the > cap > end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block inlet > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel and > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You may > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half fill > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air from > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so the > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top > the > coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain the > coolant level in the funnel at a constant level. > > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water > pump > pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the coolant > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the funnel. > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised 450 > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure of > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system and > the pump must be replaced. > > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque or > cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some > cavitation. > If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in the funnel > rather > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank. > > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type you > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will > dissapear. > > Cheers > Feral Errol > www.datrats.com.au > > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm up > to > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little bit > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on� > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won�t run any cooler than 90� > It is an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std 1600 > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank.. > The recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is so > high.. It has me very confused. > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the radiator > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to the > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap off > again the next day it is low again! > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don�t think > it�s a head gasket.. > Any other ideas or suggestions?? > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool down > to > near 82ish when I�m cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo help?? > Cheers, > Mark. > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same > story.. > -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ --------------------------------------------------------------------- -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005
