They go on number 1,they usually leave a tell tale rust water mark down the
side of the block on the exhaust side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geordie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem


> I heard it is common for CA18det's to blow the head gasket around #4
> somewhere...
> Can anyone elaborate?
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, 15 February 2005 8:14 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem
>
>
> Thanks for the ideas guys..
> I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of the
> cylinders
> because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about the
level
> of the top
> hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of black
> watery stuff out
> of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange..
> I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the motor
> you can
> see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. The
thermostat
> i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is right. The motor runs
> well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. I think that is just
> my dirty plugs though..
> I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot blacker
> then 1 and
> 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty type
> color..
>
> Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? Thanks, Mark
>
>
>
>
> > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and it
> > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C
> > thermostat.
> >
> > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines.
> >
> > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the
> > cap
> > end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block inlet
> > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel and
> > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You may
> > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half fill
> > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air from
> > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so the
> > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top
> > the
> > coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain the
> > coolant level in the funnel at a constant level.
> >
> > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water
> > pump
> > pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the coolant
> > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the funnel.
> > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised 450
> > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure of
> > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow
> > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system and
> > the pump must be replaced.
> >
> > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and
> > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque
> > or cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some
> > cavitation. If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in the
> > funnel rather
> > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank.
> >
> > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type you
> > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or
> > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will
> > dissapear.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Feral Errol
> > www.datrats.com.au
> >
> > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm up
> > to
> > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little bit
> > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on.
> > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won't run any cooler than 90.
> > It is an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std 1600
> > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank..
> > The recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough
> > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is so
> > high.. It has me very confused.
> > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the radiator
> > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top
> > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to the
> > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap off
> > again the next day it is low again!
> > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don't think
> > it's a head gasket..
> > Any other ideas or suggestions??
> > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool down
> > to
> > near 82ish when I'm cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo help??
> > Cheers,
> > Mark.
> > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same
> > story..
> >
>
>
>
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