I'll agree with that - Waxstats are about the only non OEM that I've found
that work vaguely as well as genuine. Canberra is real hard on the
thermostat, 40+ one day & freezing f......g cold the next.

Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of rclough
Sent: Wednesday, 16 February 2005 10:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem


Tridon thermos are shit, are they?  This could explain why my wife's Calais
is running cooler since I replaced the original thermostat, which seized,
with one.  I am concerned that the car now runs too cool.  EFI cars are very
fussy about the temp that they run at - even replacing the coolant with
straight water can alter the running temp and upset the engine management.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Heath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem


> is the thermostat geniune nissan?
> mine came over from japan with a 88deg
> i put in a 82deg out of the CA16 pulsar because i used the different
thermo
> outlet as well, i run a cross flow style radiator (not same side, as
> standard)
> the radiator guy next door said only use geniune thermostat's as the
tridon
> and others are shit!
> u should see my old EA it's got a 93deg thermo as standard you should 
> see the temp go up and down as the thermostat opens and closes
>
> have you had the radiator cleaned out, properly with a tank off and 
> they push blades through the fins. to clean them. when the thermo 
> opens on my CA the top hose gets quite hard. and i notice that the 
> temp slowly drops.
>
> heath
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, 15 February 2005 7:13
> Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem
>
>
> > Thanks for the ideas guys..
> > I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of 
> > the
> cylinders
> > because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about 
> > the
> level of the top
> > hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of 
> > black
> watery stuff out
> > of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange..
> > I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the
motor
> you can
> > see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. The 
> > thermostat i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is
right.
> > The motor runs well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. 
> > I
> think that is just
> > my dirty plugs though..
> > I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot
blacker
> then 1 and
> > 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty 
> > type
> color..
> >
> > Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? Thanks,
> > Mark
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and it
> > > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C
> > > thermostat.
> > >
> > > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines.
> > >
> > > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the
> > > cap
> > > end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block inlet
> > > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel and
> > > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You may
> > > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half fill
> > > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air from
> > > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so
the
> > > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top
> > > the
> > > coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain the
> > > coolant level in the funnel at a constant level.
> > >
> > > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water
> > > pump
> > > pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the
coolant
> > > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the
funnel.
> > > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised
450
> > > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure
of
> > > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow
> > > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system
and
> > > the pump must be replaced.
> > >
> > > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and
> > > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque
or
> > > cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some
> > > cavitation.
> > > If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in the funnel
> > > rather
> > > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank.
> > >
> > > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type you
> > > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or
> > > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will
> > > dissapear.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Feral Errol
> > > www.datrats.com.au
> > >
> > > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm up
> > > to
> > > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little
bit
> > > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on.
> > > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won't run any cooler than 90.
> > > It is an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std
1600
> > > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank..
> > > The recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough
> > > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is
so
> > > high.. It has me very confused.
> > > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the radiator
> > > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top
> > > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to the
> > > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap off
> > > again the next day it is low again!
> > > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don't think
> > > it's a head gasket..
> > > Any other ideas or suggestions??
> > > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool down

> > > to
> > > near 82ish when I'm cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo
help??
> > > Cheers,
> > > Mark.
> > > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same
> > > story..
> > >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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> >
>
>
>
>
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