Title: Message
Ok, this is going to be tricky to explain but I'll give it a go - any engineers on the list? You gotta be able to explain this better than I'm going to, and hopefully get it right.
 
In a real world, unis should be in harmonic balance or phased I think is the term engineering types use - if they're not in phase then they'll vibrate and eventually fail but they have to be out a fair way before that happens.
 
They don't have to be in a straight line but they must run as close as possible in the same plane i.e. phased. Now unless you can get under the car easily this is gonna be hard to do, but this is the way that I was taught to do it way back in the 70's - they probably use a wizbang laser or something now.
 
If you run a piece of string from the centre of the gearbox output shaft horizontally to a point past the input shaft of the diff and secure it to something - this point will usually be above the diff. Then run a second piece of string from the input shaft of the diff to a point past the output shaft of the gearbox i.e. in the other direction. If the unis are to be in perfect harmonic balance then the two pieces of string will be parallel to each other but in a Datto I've found that +-10 degrees out or so seems to work OK. Whichever end the pieces of string are closest together, then this Uni will work harder than the other one - with gearbox conversations in 1600's it's usually the gearbox end. This problem with IRS suspensions was virtually eliminated by using CV joints on the shafts - you can run real weird angles with them and at the same time shove mega hp thru them - unis are far more sensitive.
 
I just looked up this problem on the net - good luck understanding this tech speak - it's talking about shortening drive shafts which potentially creates the same problem.
 
While the driveshaft is out, it's a good idea to use a centre punch to mark the position where the yolk aligns with the driveshaft. By doing so you'll know where the original yolk-to-driveshaft alignment was in case driveshaft service is needed at a later date. If for some reason the driveshaft needs to be shortened or a new driveshaft end needs to be installed, the marking will serve as a reference point for alignment. Maintaining proper alignment will ensure the correct phasing of the driveshaft ends, which is critical for reliable, trouble-free operation. (Out-of-phase drive shafts wear U-joints at an accelerated rate and can add harmonic vibrations to the drive train.)
 
Regards,
Terry (Imp not an engineer, but I pay attention)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Um 510
Sent: Wednesday, 16 February 2005 5:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: 610 sss 5speed into Auto 510

Also
the rubber mount from the auto box will bolt up to the 180b box, but will this throw out the tailshaft uni angles? i did a quick assemble under the car and it seems the gbox xmember with the auto rubber will alighn with the holes on the floor, i have the box under a jack, and what looks like the right height (by eye) and it looks like the xmembe bolt holesr are roughtly 20mm from the floor.
 Whats the best way to make sure the g/box at the correct height? ive looked at bluey gbox rubber mounts and they look the same as the 180b one....
 
thanx for any help greatly appreciated
 
MIchael
----- Original Message -----
From: Um 510
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: 610 sss 5speed into Auto 510

Terry,
        Ive got the L18 bolted in, hole cut in tunnel and im ready 2 do the xmember...However ive struck a problem....use flat type engine mount from 240K, Bluebird etc Or did u mean gear box mount?
 
thanx
 
Michael
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Rudd
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 10:42 PM
Subject: RE: 610 sss 5speed into Auto 510

Michael,
 
Use 1600 xmember reversed, spaced down around 19mm and use flat type engine mount from 240K, Bluebird etc - you will need to drill a few holes especially as a 180B Dogleg 5 speed is longer than the Stanza variety. You need to relocate the handbrake cable guide - depends on how fussy you are and how cluey your RTA inspector is. You'll also need the 130mm shorter tail shaft but measure to be sure that's the correct length.
 
Regards,
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Um 510
Sent: Monday, 7 February 2005 3:22 PM
To: OZDAT MAILING LIST
Subject: 610 sss 5speed into Auto 510

Hi there, ive searched the archives with little succes. I going to be droping my L18 and 180b sss dogleg 5speed into the auto 510 and i was wondering if theres a standard gbox xmember mod?
Or should i use a combination of 610 xmember and the auto 510 one,?
Or cut up the auto 510 one and mod/weld it to suit?
Or buy some steal plate make a totally custom one?
 
I havn't bolted the motor/box in as yet but it will be done this week so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
thanx and havea good one
 
Michael

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