|
Ok,
this is going to be tricky to explain but I'll give it a go - any engineers on
the list? You gotta be able to explain this better than I'm going to, and
hopefully get it right.
In a
real world, unis should be in harmonic balance or phased I think is the
term engineering types use - if they're not in phase then they'll vibrate
and eventually fail but they have to be out a fair way before that
happens.
They
don't have to be in a straight line but they must run as close as possible in
the same plane i.e. phased. Now unless you can get under the car easily this is
gonna be hard to do, but this is the way that I was taught to do it way back in
the 70's - they probably use a wizbang laser or something
now.
If you
run a piece of string from the centre of the gearbox output shaft horizontally
to a point past the input shaft of the diff and secure it to something - this
point will usually be above the diff. Then run a second piece of string from the
input shaft of the diff to a point past the output shaft of the gearbox i.e. in
the other direction. If the unis are to be in perfect harmonic balance then the
two pieces of string will be parallel to each other but in a Datto I've found
that +-10 degrees out or so seems to work OK. Whichever end the pieces of string
are closest together, then this Uni will work harder than the other one - with
gearbox conversations in 1600's it's usually the gearbox end. This problem with
IRS suspensions was virtually eliminated by using CV joints on the shafts - you
can run real weird angles with them and at the same time shove mega hp thru
them - unis are far more sensitive.
I just
looked up this problem on the net - good luck understanding this tech speak -
it's talking about shortening drive shafts which potentially creates the same
problem.
While the driveshaft is out, it's a good
idea to use a centre punch to mark the position where the yolk aligns with the
driveshaft. By doing so you'll know where the original yolk-to-driveshaft
alignment was in case driveshaft service is needed at a later date. If for some
reason the driveshaft needs to be shortened or a new driveshaft end needs to be
installed, the marking will serve as a reference point for alignment.
Maintaining proper alignment will ensure the correct phasing of the driveshaft
ends, which is critical for reliable, trouble-free operation. (Out-of-phase
drive shafts wear U-joints at an accelerated rate and can add harmonic
vibrations to the drive train.)
Regards,
Terry
(Imp not an engineer, but I pay attention)
Also
the rubber mount from the auto box will bolt up
to the 180b box, but will this throw out the tailshaft uni angles? i did a
quick assemble under the car and it seems the gbox xmember with the auto
rubber will alighn with the holes on the floor, i have the box under a jack,
and what looks like the right height (by eye) and it looks like the xmembe
bolt holesr are roughtly 20mm from the floor.
Whats the best way to make sure the g/box
at the correct height? ive looked at bluey gbox rubber mounts and they look
the same as the 180b one....
thanx for any help greatly
appreciated
MIchael
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 11:16
PM
Subject: Re: 610 sss 5speed into Auto
510
Terry,
Ive
got the L18 bolted in, hole cut in tunnel and im ready 2 do the
xmember...However ive struck a problem....use flat type
engine mount from 240K, Bluebird etc Or did u
mean gear box mount?
thanx
Michael
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 10:42
PM
Subject: RE: 610 sss 5speed into Auto
510
Michael,
Use 1600 xmember reversed, spaced down around 19mm and use flat
type engine mount from 240K, Bluebird etc - you will need to drill a
few holes especially as a 180B Dogleg 5 speed is longer than the Stanza
variety. You need to relocate the handbrake cable guide - depends on how
fussy you are and how cluey your RTA inspector is. You'll also need the
130mm shorter tail shaft but measure to be sure that's the correct
length.
Regards,
Terry
Hi there, ive searched the archives with
little succes. I going to be droping my L18 and 180b sss dogleg 5speed
into the auto 510 and i was wondering if theres a standard gbox xmember
mod?
Or should i use a combination of 610
xmember and the auto 510 one,?
Or cut up the auto 510 one and mod/weld it
to suit?
Or buy some steal plate make a totally
custom one?
I havn't bolted the motor/box in as yet but
it will be done this week so any help would be greatly
appreciated.
thanx and havea good one
Michael --membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to
[email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of
this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
--------------------------------------------------------------------- --membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to
[email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of this
email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG
Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date:
3/02/2005
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to
[email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of this
email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG
Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date:
14/02/2005
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to
[email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of this
email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
---------------------------------------------------------------------
--membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:-
Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send submissions to [email protected]
No unauthorised redistribution of this email
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm
http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html
http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
--------------------------------------------------------------------- |