Mark just get a CA16 FWD thermo housing out of a pulsar heath ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark F" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, 17 February 2005 10:39 Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem
> The thermostat isn't a Nissan item, but I have tried 2 different 82 > degree thermostat now and I still get these symptoms... > - the engine warms up from 0 to 90 degrees very quickly.. In other cars > I have had they haven't warmed up as quick as this one.. > - Once it reaches 90, it will never see below 90 degrees.. If I sit at > the lights it will start to creep up towards 100, but once I start > driving again it will come back down to 90. > - I am losing water.. The same amount each time. It never drops down > below a particular level, but the amount lost is fairly significant - > about 1/4 of the radiator.. > - The cooling system never seems to build up much pressure. The overflow > water is still as fresh as when I put it in there. No coolant has mixed > in with it because there is never enough pressure in the system to make > the cap let any water out.. > > My radiator was a custom made two row alloy one, but the way the inlet > and outlet were positioned looked like it wouldn't help with efficiency > because the top inlet was about 10 rows down from the top of the core > and a baffle plate between the inlet and outlet was a late addition by > the guy that built it so I have my doubts whether it is stopping the > water from going straight down to the outlet and bypassing the core... > Tomorrow I am getting my top outlet moved to the opposite end tank and > the baffle taken out so I think this should rule out the radiator as a > problem after I get it back. I also have to get the thermostat housing > modified to point across the front of the engine towards the other end > tank.. > I will also look at getting a bigger thermofan which will cover the > whole radiator.. My current fan is a good quality one but only 11".. > > If I still am having problems once it is all back together again then I > will really be looking for some ideas on what could be wrong... > Thanks for all the help and most importantly - wish me luck! > Cheers, > Mark > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Heath > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 5:40 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem > > is the thermostat geniune nissan? > mine came over from japan with a 88deg > i put in a 82deg out of the CA16 pulsar because i used the different > thermo > outlet as well, i run a cross flow style radiator (not same side, as > standard) > the radiator guy next door said only use geniune thermostat's as the > tridon > and others are shit! > u should see my old EA it's got a 93deg thermo as standard you should > see > the temp go up and down as the thermostat opens and closes > > have you had the radiator cleaned out, properly with a tank off and they > push blades through the fins. to clean them. > when the thermo opens on my CA the top hose gets quite hard. > and i notice that the temp slowly drops. > > heath > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Tuesday, 15 February 2005 7:13 > Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem > > > > Thanks for the ideas guys.. > > I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of > the > cylinders > > because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about the > level of the top > > hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of > black > watery stuff out > > of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange.. > > I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the > motor > you can > > see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. > > The thermostat i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is > right. > > The motor runs well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. I > think that is just > > my dirty plugs though.. > > I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot > blacker > then 1 and > > 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty > type > color.. > > > > Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > > > > > > > > > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and > it > > > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C > > > thermostat. > > > > > > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines. > > > > > > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the > > > cap > > > end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block > inlet > > > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel > and > > > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You > may > > > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half > fill > > > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air > from > > > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so > the > > > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top > > > the > > > coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain the > > > coolant level in the funnel at a constant level. > > > > > > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water > > > pump > > > pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the > coolant > > > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the > funnel. > > > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised > 450 > > > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure > of > > > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow > > > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system > and > > > the pump must be replaced. > > > > > > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and > > > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque > or > > > cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some > > > cavitation. > > > If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in the funnel > > > rather > > > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank. > > > > > > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type > you > > > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or > > > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will > > > dissapear. > > > > > > Cheers > > > Feral Errol > > > www.datrats.com.au > > > > > > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm > up > > > to > > > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little > bit > > > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on. > > > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won't run any cooler than 90. > > > It is an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std > 1600 > > > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank.. > > > The recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough > > > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is > so > > > high.. It has me very confused. > > > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the > radiator > > > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top > > > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to > the > > > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap > off > > > again the next day it is low again! > > > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don't think > > > it's a head gasket.. > > > Any other ideas or suggestions?? > > > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool > down > > > to > > > near 82ish when I'm cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo > help?? > > > Cheers, > > > Mark. > > > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same > > > story.. > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [email protected] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ --------------------------------------------------------------------- -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005
