No idea what they cost. 
The ones I had on this E15 had been overheated previously and were easy to
break. 

I've paid $16 a bolt for SR20 flywheel bolts. Never again tho, there is a
bolt manufacturer near where I live, I'll be going there next time. They
have EVERYTHING you could ever want. 



-----Original Message-----
From: Mick Ralph [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, 24 April 2005 2:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Removing snapped head bolt


what would it cost to replace all the headbolts??
And replace them with what?
cheers
Mick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geordie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 10:33 PM
Subject: RE: Removing snapped head bolt


> I had one snap on a E15et a few threads from the end. When the head of 
> the bolt breaks off they are no longer under tension as Mark said, so 
> you can get a flat blade screw driver and poke it down the hole and 
> turn it. If it doesn't work, use a bit of WD40 down the hole to seep 
> in and lubricate it. It will take a mile of patience but I reckon 
> you'll get it.
>
> There's a lot to be said for replacing head bolts every time you take 
> the head off!
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zac Campbell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, 22 April 2005 10:05 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Removing snapped head bolt
>
>
> Brad, thanks. It snapped a few threads from the top of the threaded 
> section so I think I will have to take the head off again. I'll do a 
> mark k trick and reuse the head gasket. it's only done 5 minutes of 
> work.
>
>
>
>
> Brad wrote:
> > Take it from one who has removed many a snapped head bolt - don't 
> > use EZ outs.  They will break in the bolt and cause all sorts of 
> > complications as they are difficult to drill out.  If the bolt head 
> > can't turn the thread an EZ out won't.
> >
> > Get a bolt with a larger head than your head bolts, cut off the 
> > threaded portion, and weld the remaining stud onto the remaining 
> > bolt. Obviously cover the head with rags or sheet metal.  The new 
> > stud should turn the head bolt out.  If you don't have enough 
> > protruding head bolt then you will have to remove the head.
> >
> > I recently did one on a Diesel this way, and had to drill the center 
> > of the head bolt and insert the new bolt and weld it very strongly 
> > to get it to hold - certainly beat taking the head off.  Just watch 
> > your heat levels.
> >
> > Cheers
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Thursday, 28 April 2005 6:11 PM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: Removing snapped head bolt
> >
> > Having never snapped a head bolt I am kinda talking out my backside, 
> > but what about and ez out? I bet you were pissed off when it 
> > happened.
> >
> > On Friday 22 April 2005 10:03, Zac Campbell wrote:
> >
> >>In this run of bad luck I seem to be having, I just snapped a head 
> >>bolt while retorquing the head. User error, but is there any way to 
> >>remove the head bolt without removing the head? Might be a big ask 
> >>but it would save so much f-ing around.
> >>
> >>Cheers.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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