Try bleeding the fuel system at the filter (Top bolt, or line out)
while you pump the primer. It sounds like air is getting into the
fuel system somewhere. A leak at the filter can cause a leak. Bad
copper seals in the delivery valves can cause problems.
If you get air out at the filter, you have a leak. 95% of the time,
I find leaks in the hoses or clamps. Someone on the list reported
air leak at the filter. I have had 2 cases of rusty cars having
steel lines rust through.
Fuel should leak out of the injector lines when you crack them. They
should not be empty when you crack them. Cracking the lines could
reduce backpressure somewhat to prime the plungers, but if you have a
good airtight fuel supply, cracking the lines has little or no
difference with a Bosch inline pump, after the injector lines have
been opened. Newer cars have no provision for priming. You just
crank the engine until it starts after replacing a IP or injectors,
or replacing Injector lines. Your 84 OM617 in not much different,
except that it has a priming pump, which is a great aid for
troubleshooting the fuel lines.
Thanks for the input. No leaks at the pump and it is a newer style
pump. Appears to to be pumping correctly however after manually
pumping 30 times or more the vehicle will not start. After
loosening the injector lines at the injectors I pumped manually
about 20 times with no results after which I cranked with the
starter and fuel began flowing from the lines within 5 seconds.
Tightened the lines back up and it started right away.
It sounds like I have a pinhole leak somewhere that I am going to
have to track down, what a pain.
Thanks again,
Mike
On Jun 11, 2010, at 9:52 AM, Dieselhead wrote:
Air leak in fuel lines. He said it is not delivering fuel to the
nozzles when the condition exists. As an aside, Michael, you don't
need to crack the injection lines. Just prime it with the hand
pump, then crank it.
I had a similar problem with an S10 pickup, it was something in
the ignition system but since your car is a diesel I guess it
would not be a hot ignition module...
You sure it is fuel related? Is the glow system working OK? Glow
plug fuse? Relay? I replaced the relay on the 84 300SD with
whatever that new thing is Rusty sells, a fast glow relay or
something? Or maybe it is just a new version of the same old.
Whatever, the car starts much better now. (Hey, maybe that is like
the hot ignition module?)
--R
On 6/11/2010 9:24 AM, Mike Esh wrote:
1984 300D 290,000 miles and running strong.
Car starts very hard, sometimes not at all when I try to restart
after driving long enough to get to full operating temperature.
If I restart within a few minutes it starts right up. If I wait
for 2 to hours it starts right up. If I try to start up within
an hour or two it will not start. To get it to start I have to
loosen injector lines and crank or manual pump until I get fuel
to the injectors. During the winter here in Michigan I had no
problem whatsoever. As soon as we hit 70 degrees plus it started
acting up again. Is this a problem with the injector pump or do
I have holey hose somewhere in the system?
Thanks,
Mike
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