Peter, I've had mine apart and replaced the seal once already, and the seal rides the hub, hub goes over the end of the crank.

I think mine is leaking because I used an aftermarket seal and the hub is scored.

A few years ago the price for a new hub was about $80, now they are over $200.

Manual says the seal can be set deeper if the hub is grooved, I tried that but maybe I didn't set it deep enough.

I'd like to get a used hub and (if grooved) see if a machinist can weld a bead on the groove and then turn it down. Goal is to minimize down time.

I'm also tempted to try JB Weld and sand/polish that smooth.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

Just put a collar on the damper where the seal rides. MUCH faster/simpler/cheaper. It is done all the time. Metric size is no problem as most seals or bearings on post WWII merkun stuff are metric.

The brand on the last one I used is Dichtomatik Americas. Product is called shaft-eze.

https://catalog.dichtomatik.us/en/products/Seals/ShaftEzeShaftSleeves.aspx

If you have the seal number from the last one you used, take it to the bearing supply house and get a seal and the shaft -eze to match. Minimal down time as it will take you 5 min to install both when you get the damper off. The shaft-eze came with a steel cup to use to install it over the shaft or hub.

Otherwise look up the MB part number and take that in. The bearing houses have good cross reference resources. OR, you can look it up on the SKF seal crossreference online from the MB part number.



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