Peter, I've had mine apart and replaced the seal once already, and
the seal rides the hub, hub goes over the end of the crank.
I think mine is leaking because I used an aftermarket seal and the
hub is scored.
A few years ago the price for a new hub was about $80, now they are over $200.
Manual says the seal can be set deeper if the hub is grooved, I
tried that but maybe I didn't set it deep enough.
I'd like to get a used hub and (if grooved) see if a machinist can
weld a bead on the groove and then turn it down. Goal is to
minimize down time.
I'm also tempted to try JB Weld and sand/polish that smooth.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
Just put a collar on the damper where the seal rides. MUCH
faster/simpler/cheaper. It is done all the time. Metric size is no
problem as most seals or bearings on post WWII merkun stuff are
metric.
The brand on the last one I used is Dichtomatik Americas. Product
is called shaft-eze.
https://catalog.dichtomatik.us/en/products/Seals/ShaftEzeShaftSleeves.aspx
If you have the seal number from the last one you used, take it to
the bearing supply house and get a seal and the shaft -eze to match.
Minimal down time as it will take you 5 min to install both when you
get the damper off. The shaft-eze came with a steel cup to use to
install it over the shaft or hub.
Otherwise look up the MB part number and take that in. The bearing
houses have good cross reference resources. OR, you can look it up
on the SKF seal crossreference online from the MB part number.
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