Hi Werner,
Sounds like you haven't maintained a manual trans in awhile. My 240D and 190D
both call for ATF, I'm just curious if anybody has acutally tried Mobil 1 ATF.
I had an '88 GMC with a manual trans and it used ATF, my '84 Ford Tempo did too.
Some of what you wrote confused me all my cars are 4cyl, 190D 2.2l and a
240D. I think that whatever it is that makes the 190D more efficient (other
than not having 3 fat guys in the back seat) also makes it start better. I
don't know if thats greater compression or better heat transferance from the
glowplugs or whatever...
The important thing here is that I think the battery cables haven't been
changed in 20+ years and should at the very least be swapped out. I'm SURE
they've gained in resistance. How much I dunno but I bet they've gained
something and when its really cold (like -20F) and every amp counts I want it
to be able to get there.
-Curt
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 14:44:27 -0500
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Shoulda done that months ago
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Curt - I suppose 15w50 is OK in warmer climates,and for worn engines,
but I
switched to 5W40 several years ago. My local Mobil distributor claims
that
Delvac1 only comes that way!
I would think that the 240D would turn over better than the 300D,
simply
because there's one less cylinder to "push". My experience with the 5
cylinder engines is mostly with the turbo version in the SDs (and of
course
the 602 engine in my '90D), but my daughter has a '77 300D - and none
of us
has had any problems with starting them here in the mid-Atlantic area,
and
without resorting to the block heater, too. But then again, we rarely
see
anything below +10F, either!
Perhaps there's enough difference in the performance of the glow plugs
in
the 4 cylinder engines to require the extra effort?
I have no concerns about putting in heavier cables for the starter
system,
but only say that my experience is that the OE set-up should be good
enough,
if its in good condition.
As for ATF in manual transmissions, I haven't any info. In the "old
days",
we usually used a gear oil (85W?), but I recall that in the 60s or 70s
Detroit started to put thinner engine oils in manual transmissions,
perhaps
to get better fuel mileage?? I do also remember an incident in Alaska
when
a GI brought a 4 cylinder Scout up from the "lower 48" in the summer,
and by
January the running engine couldn't make the rear wheels turn as the
differential gear lube had turned solid. Had to warm it up in a
garage, and
carve it out with a putty knife. So a free-flowing lube certainly has
its
place, especially in cold climates!
Werner
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The arm to my valve is not loose but the arm itself can rotate freely
once the rod is detached from it. It cacn go round and round with the
engine running and there's no tension.
Right now I'm suspecting the valve itself is toast.
I'm hoping it's not the tandem pump!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
