You made my day!
Larry
On 12/26/2016 1:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes wrote:
You won't have to accept my offer. IMHO that car is bullet proof. My 90 had
268k on it & got 30mpg. All original engine & tranny. I am betting not
catastrophic.
Dwight Giles Jr.
1982 300CD
2005 E320 4 matic
Wickford RI
On Dec 26, 2016 1:46 PM, "Larry Turner via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
While waiting for my wife to get home I thought I'd try bleeding the fuel
lines but it's going to have to wait for my wife to get here. I loosened
all 5 and cranked it over & I have fuel leaking through the loose fittings
but cannot tell if it is flowing or bubbling, so I'm not sure the air is
all out.
My disability makes it too hard for me to move from the ignition switch to
the engine to check the GP's. I'm just not fast enough anymore. ;-(
BTW - I recall the relay being on the Leading side of the Left Front Inner
Fender - is that right, just behind the ABS unit? There is a nut on the
inboard side and another on the outboard side, right?
There's one more thing nagging at me - when cranking I noticed it seemed to
be spinning over very freely! Scary feeling I must admit. I hope I
don't have any broken rings or burned valves! But I come back to the MPG's
which I checked at every fill up and I have been getting a solid 30MPG +/-
2 mpg's - that's been checked for as long as we have owned it - roughly 10
years. I'm saying my prayer it's not the engine. Otherwise I might have
to accept Dwight's $500 offer!
Thanks for the help gang!
LarryT
On 12/26/2016 10:50 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
Thanks Curley!!
On 12/26/2016 10:21 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Basics:
0. put the charger on the battery to recharge/maintain it during a lot of
cranking.
1. Crack the fuel line(s) then crank to make sure you have fuel
delivery. About 720ú degrees rotation on the crank should be enough. If
you need to bleed the system, more cranking is needed.
2. If fuel is being delivered to the nozzles, Then proceed to electrical
checks
3. Key on to glow position, check for 12V at each GP. Be careful not to
short the probe to ground. You may need a couple of glow cycles to
complete this. A helper to turn the key to glow/off makes it easier.
4. Pull off the cover from the GP relay, pull the plug to the GPs. If
0V on step 3, turn key go to glow and check for 12V on the relay at the
terminals for the GP wires. If 0V, replace fuses first, if present.
Otherwise, replace GP relay.
(a further test is possible to make sure the key is delivering juice to
the relay to turn on the relay. Consult wiring diagram for this info) If
a fuse is present, it is generally a fuse problem. if a new fuse does not
fix it, and GP, GP wires are good, it is almost always a bad relay.
5. If all used relay pins are delivering 12V to the wiring harness to
the GPs, turn the multimeter to the lowest ohm reading you have. check
meter for zero. If you can't get 0, offet your reading by the static
amount. Check the used sockets in the plug on the GP harness between one
socket and ground. Book value is 1.4 ohms. 0 ohms is a open plug, replace
it. over 1.7 ohms os a bad plug, replace it, if you are sure your meter is
reading correctly. It takes a good meter to read 1.4 ohms. with a cheap
($10 HF) meter it is 0 or infinity, so if you get something near 0 ohms,
you assume it is good; infinity indicates it is an open circuit, replace
the plug. GPs usually fail open. A GP with say 2.4 ohms reading is on its
way out and needs to be replaced. 2.4 is about as high as I have seen. I
have seen meters that consistently read 1.7 on good or new GPs, so you have
to learn your meter's idiosyncrasies, unless you have a very expensive
($500+) meter.
You guys edit this to make this an all purpose troubleshooting formula
for non start or slow start Diesels.
Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 26, 2016 at 8:42 AM
No. i probably didn't explain the chronology very well.
1,. Tried to start it - had to crank excessively to get it to finally
start - .
2. After excessive cranking it started running very rough - exactly
like it would be when 1 or 2 GPs go dead.. (After your question about the
dash light I recalled it being illuminated while the car was running.)
3. During this start up episode I noticed lots of white smoke from the
exhaust pipe.
4 Since I had 5 new GPs on the shelf I jumped in to R&Ring the GP
probably too quickly.
5 After replacing the GPs I tried to start it and it just cranked over.
Since I had removed the fuel lines to get access to the GPs, I failed to
bleed them after re-installation.
6 My next step will be to bleed the air from the fuel lines then try to
start it once more.
7. I will do the electrical tests suggested by Mitch to confirm my relay
has died. BTW, I checked the in line fuse just in case only to find it
perfect. I think there's a fuse across the bottom of the relay but doubt
it has gone bad.
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