While waiting for my wife to get home I thought I'd try bleeding the
fuel lines but it's going to have to wait for my wife to get here. I
loosened all 5 and cranked it over & I have fuel leaking through the
loose fittings but cannot tell if it is flowing or bubbling, so I'm not
sure the air is all out.
My disability makes it too hard for me to move from the ignition switch
to the engine to check the GP's. I'm just not fast enough anymore. ;-(
BTW - I recall the relay being on the Leading side of the Left Front
Inner Fender - is that right, just behind the ABS unit? There is a nut
on the inboard side and another on the outboard side, right?
There's one more thing nagging at me - when cranking I noticed it seemed
to be spinning over very freely! Scary feeling I must admit. I hope
I don't have any broken rings or burned valves! But I come back to the
MPG's which I checked at every fill up and I have been getting a solid
30MPG +/- 2 mpg's - that's been checked for as long as we have owned it
- roughly 10 years. I'm saying my prayer it's not the engine.
Otherwise I might have to accept Dwight's $500 offer!
Thanks for the help gang!
LarryT
On 12/26/2016 10:50 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
Thanks Curley!!
On 12/26/2016 10:21 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Basics:
0. put the charger on the battery to recharge/maintain it during a
lot of cranking.
1. Crack the fuel line(s) then crank to make sure you have fuel
delivery. About 720º degrees rotation on the crank should be
enough. If you need to bleed the system, more cranking is needed.
2. If fuel is being delivered to the nozzles, Then proceed to
electrical checks
3. Key on to glow position, check for 12V at each GP. Be careful
not to short the probe to ground. You may need a couple of glow
cycles to complete this. A helper to turn the key to glow/off makes
it easier.
4. Pull off the cover from the GP relay, pull the plug to the GPs.
If 0V on step 3, turn key go to glow and check for 12V on the relay
at the terminals for the GP wires. If 0V, replace fuses first, if
present. Otherwise, replace GP relay.
(a further test is possible to make sure the key is delivering juice
to the relay to turn on the relay. Consult wiring diagram for this
info) If a fuse is present, it is generally a fuse problem. if a
new fuse does not fix it, and GP, GP wires are good, it is almost
always a bad relay.
5. If all used relay pins are delivering 12V to the wiring harness
to the GPs, turn the multimeter to the lowest ohm reading you have.
check meter for zero. If you can't get 0, offet your reading by the
static amount. Check the used sockets in the plug on the GP harness
between one socket and ground. Book value is 1.4 ohms. 0 ohms is a
open plug, replace it. over 1.7 ohms os a bad plug, replace it, if
you are sure your meter is reading correctly. It takes a good meter
to read 1.4 ohms. with a cheap ($10 HF) meter it is 0 or infinity,
so if you get something near 0 ohms, you assume it is good; infinity
indicates it is an open circuit, replace the plug. GPs usually fail
open. A GP with say 2.4 ohms reading is on its way out and needs to
be replaced. 2.4 is about as high as I have seen. I have seen
meters that consistently read 1.7 on good or new GPs, so you have to
learn your meter's idiosyncrasies, unless you have a very expensive
($500+) meter.
You guys edit this to make this an all purpose troubleshooting
formula for non start or slow start Diesels.
Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 26, 2016 at 8:42 AM
No. i probably didn't explain the chronology very well.
1,. Tried to start it - had to crank excessively to get it to
finally start - .
2. After excessive cranking it started running very rough - exactly
like it would be when 1 or 2 GPs go dead.. (After your question
about the dash light I recalled it being illuminated while the car
was running.)
3. During this start up episode I noticed lots of white smoke from
the exhaust pipe.
4 Since I had 5 new GPs on the shelf I jumped in to R&Ring the
GP probably too quickly.
5 After replacing the GPs I tried to start it and it just cranked
over. Since I had removed the fuel lines to get access to the GPs,
I failed to bleed them after re-installation.
6 My next step will be to bleed the air from the fuel lines then try
to start it once more.
7. I will do the electrical tests suggested by Mitch to confirm my
relay has died. BTW, I checked the in line fuse just in case only
to find it perfect. I think there's a fuse across the bottom of
the relay but doubt it has gone bad.
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