OK, I tested my old GPs using my DMM and found the following. I put the red probe against the threads at the tip and the black probe against the threads that contact with the head. I used a Fluke 77 Series III if that matters. And the dial set to Resistance Ω.

What does this tell me?

*GP 1 - **0.3 * *Bosch*

*GP 2 - 0.3   "*

*GP 3 - 3.50  "*

*GP 4 - 63.4  "*

*GP 5 - 11.61  "*

*
*

*Thanks!*

**


On 01/02/2017 10:12 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I've done that before.  it is very dangerous on several accounts.

Philips in car test is better. Use 12 ga (or 10 ga) wire to energize one pin position at a time. the ammeter is better than having to remove the injectors and look in the hole.

Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
January 2, 2017 at 7:27 AM
Hey Curley, This is a very definitive troubleshooting guide. It's a keeper.

What do you think about me testing my old GPs with a old Battery? Actually I have 3 old 12v batteries not being used so any of them could be used. My biggest concern is this test would make a GP glow red indicating (to me at least) the GP is good. Is that a false assumption?

Thanks!

Larry




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Curley McLain <mailto:126die...@gmail.com>
December 26, 2016 at 9:21 AM
Basics:

0. put the charger on the battery to recharge/maintain it during a lot of cranking.

1. Crack the fuel line(s) then crank to make sure you have fuel delivery. About 720º degrees rotation on the crank should be enough. If you need to bleed the system, more cranking is needed.

2. If fuel is being delivered to the nozzles, Then proceed to electrical checks

3. Key on to glow position, check for 12V at each GP. Be careful not to short the probe to ground. You may need a couple of glow cycles to complete this. A helper to turn the key to glow/off makes it easier.

4. Pull off the cover from the GP relay, pull the plug to the GPs. If 0V on step 3, turn key go to glow and check for 12V on the relay at the terminals for the GP wires. If 0V, replace fuses first, if present. Otherwise, replace GP relay. (a further test is possible to make sure the key is delivering juice to the relay to turn on the relay. Consult wiring diagram for this info) If a fuse is present, it is generally a fuse problem. if a new fuse does not fix it, and GP, GP wires are good, it is almost always a bad relay.

5. If all used relay pins are delivering 12V to the wiring harness to the GPs, turn the multimeter to the lowest ohm reading you have. check meter for zero. If you can't get 0, offet your reading by the static amount. Check the used sockets in the plug on the GP harness between one socket and ground. Book value is 1.4 ohms. 0 ohms is a open plug, replace it. over 1.7 ohms os a bad plug, replace it, if you are sure your meter is reading correctly. It takes a good meter to read 1.4 ohms. with a cheap ($10 HF) meter it is 0 or infinity, so if you get something near 0 ohms, you assume it is good; infinity indicates it is an open circuit, replace the plug. GPs usually fail open. A GP with say 2.4 ohms reading is on its way out and needs to be replaced. 2.4 is about as high as I have seen. I have seen meters that consistently read 1.7 on good or new GPs, so you have to learn your meter's idiosyncrasies, unless you have a very expensive ($500+) meter.


You guys edit this to make this an all purpose troubleshooting formula for non start or slow start Diesels.

Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 26, 2016 at 8:42 AM
No. i probably didn't explain the chronology very well.

1,. Tried to start it - had to crank excessively to get it to finally start - .

2. After excessive cranking it started running very rough - exactly like it would be when 1 or 2 GPs go dead.. (After your question about the dash light I recalled it being illuminated while the car was running.)

3. During this start up episode I noticed lots of white smoke from the exhaust pipe.

4 Since I had 5 new GPs on the shelf I jumped in to R&Ring the GP probably too quickly.

5 After replacing the GPs I tried to start it and it just cranked over. Since I had removed the fuel lines to get access to the GPs, I failed to bleed them after re-installation.

6 My next step will be to bleed the air from the fuel lines then try to start it once more.

7. I will do the electrical tests suggested by Mitch to confirm my relay has died. BTW, I checked the in line fuse just in case only to find it perfect. I think there's a fuse across the bottom of the relay but doubt it has gone bad.





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Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 25, 2016 at 7:45 PM
That's a great idea! I remove the intake manifold when replacing GPs and forgot I need extra cranking to get rid of the air in the fuel lines. I R&R'd. Can't believe I forgot spmething so basic!


Thx agn!

LarryT




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Fred Moir via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 25, 2016 at 7:31 PM
LarryT.

Air leak? Letting the fuel drain back into the tank.

Check actual power to the GP's and the resistance of each plug.

Fred.


Fred Moir.
Lynn MA.
Diesel preferred.


________________________________
From: Mercedes <mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com> on behalf of Larry Turner via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: 25 December 2016 19:46
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Larry Turner
Subject: [MBZ] HELP!! My '91 300D is Not Starting

Tried to do some last minute shopping Thursday and she wouldn't fire up
without some very extended cranking.

It's very rare for it to take more than a few revolutions of the
engine. So I replaced all of the Glow Plugs just in case, but it didn't
help.

I don't think it is the Glow Plug Relay because it usually tries to
start after cranking for 10-15 seconds, but this time I am getting
nothing! It's not trying to start at all. Saturday before I changed
the GPs, I got it to start by cranking it. It started firing on 2 then
three and finally it was on 4 and 5 I think.

BTW, I did a Oil Analysis on it last year and all the numbers came out
exactly where they should be. Very low metal contamination, no water
content and almost no fuel content. Also, the fuel mileage has stayed
stable at 30 mpg +/- 2 mpg.

I will test the Relay tomorrow just in case. *Any ideas?*

Thanks,

LarryT

'91 300D 2.5 Turbo
280,000 miles
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