prolly splitting hairs then...never stopped me before. I have a  ton-o-15W50 at 
home (like several years supply) so since the difference  isn't huge, I'll just 
worry about this when that supply dries up.
  
  Thanks!
  
  Chris

"Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Yes, your indy is nuts. The 5W-40 weight 
is basically identical to
Delvac-1, arguable the best diesel synthetic on the market, period.
However, 15W-50 is not too thick, and if that makes you both happier,
it would be a fine second choice. There is also a new 10W-40 variety
that might be a good compromise. I'm waiting to see which if these
three, if ANY, finally appear at Wal-Mart

Kaleb - sheesh, where the hell have you BEEN? We've had a number of
threads on the T&S 5W-30 topic in the past 2 weeks. Short answer -
they are renaming 5W-40 (what we want) to "Turbo Diesel Truck", and
calling the 5W-30 "Truck and SUV". VERY confusing. I have not seen the
5W-40 on the shelf, at any store, as of yet. I'm still looking.

For everyone else, yeah, Delvac-1 would be preferable, the deterrent
there is cost, and it can be hard to find locally. Yeah, I know you
can buy it via the internet, but with S&H costs it ends up being close
to $30 per gallon (or $37.50 for 5 quarts, to compare to the Wal-Mart
jugs). And at that price, we can buy Amsoil from Johnny Bee a lot
cheaper!

:)

-Dave M.

> ------------------------------
> Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2006 17:29:40 -0800 (PST)
> From: Christopher McCann 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] MY CAR (and what is going on with Mobil 1)
>
>
> My Indy (who uses all M1 products) INSISTS that T&SUV/delvac  1/turbo
> diesel truck is too thin for my car in MO, even in winter since  it does not
> get THAT cold. Is he just nuts?
>
>  ON THE OTHER HAND, is M1 15W-50 TOO THICK to use in Western
> Missouri winter, wearing out my engine further at start up?
>
>  I do not have a leaking oil problem (I did until about 10,000 miles of M1 
> 15W-50).
>
>  Thoughts o' wise men?
>
>  Chris

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 211K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
                
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>       If you rotated the engine watching the cam mark come around and
> stopped it when it was lined up, read the # of degrees on the damper,
> then you did it right. 20 degrees is crazy sloppy.

The mark is on the side of the cam tower, towards the fuel filter.
20 degrees (or 25) ATDC is what I got measuring the pip on the tower
against a little notch in the the gear (or washer).  Basically off the
end of the timing scale.  New filters is not a problem, but I didn't
have any in hand.  I've been looking for the smoking gun before I
spend money.

> In one way I hope you're wrong but in another it may be the
> running problem.

The car has 300kmi on it, it may be the original chain.  If there
is confidence that I did the test right I guess I'll be needing a
chain!  Goodie, I've never done one of those before.

But could 20deg stretch cause it to only have power enough to go
up hills in 1?  It is truly a dog, as soon as it upshifts it drops
in RPM, and keeps dropping.  Feels like it's got a Briggs motor
under the hood.  It could be that the pump is more out of time
than the chain stretch would account for.  For that matter, it
needn't be stretch, somebody could have put it back together
all wrong.  Records are incomplete, to say the least.

-- Jim


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