Hi Kaleb,
You asked<<Wonder if there is a market for shells >>
I think that's a definate "Yes!" There are a LOT of old W123s that are
mechanically sound but are being eaten alive by the rust bug. I did just
that with my 67 MGB. The body was too far gone to repair. I had a estimate
of $3500 just for the labor to weld in the new panels I would provide. A
new Heritage Body (made from original jigs) costs around $9k - but I bought
a rust free body from Ca and am transferring all my good parts to the good
body after I painted it.
Actually, my 240D may be one that would benefit from your
suggestion/question. My rockers ook good but I suspect the inside of the
rockers are rusting. Same for the floors - I have patched the worst parts
but there are all kinds of minir areas thatcan get real bad, real fast.
Other than the rockers and floors my 240D is excellent. But bad rockers is
a killer. If I had a 84 240D with a bad engine/tranny I could easily
transfer my mechanicals and interior - as always, price is the driving
factor. But if you;re considering sending them to the scrap pile and
getting maybe $50 at most for one, I would think you could sell them for
$500-$1000 and everybody wins.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D
I run into that problem quite a bit. I have several cars now that are
probably not worth fixing yet the bodies have no rust. I hate crushing
cars that have no rust with their only problems being bad paint, bad
interior, bad engine, bad electrical etc. If they have 1 or 2 redeeming
qualities I will save them, but if everything is bad but they have no
rust, I usually part them. Wonder if there is a market for shells of
cars, IE, no doors(or maybe doors if a person wants, no interior, no
electrical, no suspension.
Tom Hargrave wrote:
You can always use a roll around jack. Just remember, as metal goes away
so
does strength. I would not want to be involved in a serious accident in a
car with serious corrosion problems, even a Mercedes. There are too many
rust free bodies out there - I bet that even Kaleb could provide you one
at
reasonable cost.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D
I guess what's most interesting to me is that it seems to only be this
one
point. The others seem fine. I do have rust around the rear fenders,
and
some minor bits elsewhere but this is the most major structural looking
I've
seen yet.
As long as the engine holds out Perhaps I'll just have to add a tube
frame
to it and end up with a MBZ go-kart...
Levi
On 4/20/07, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Serious rust at the jack points is usually the beginning of the end.
It's a sign that there is serious cancer elsewhere. Each jack point are
built strong enough to lift 1/2 the car and if you can no longer lift
the
car then what lesser parts have been weakened?
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D
So what's the probable plan then? Just watch it and when it seems like
the
metal is too fatigued(is this when the "jack-rod" comes up through the
floor?), dig the whole thing out and rebuild?
Levi
On 4/19/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So... Just how well put in are those jacking points in an 83' 300D?
Fairly well. But once the rust attacks like you've seen it's
probably got a very good start on the thicker metal that's
behind the facade. Just boxing it in may not be a good idea.
-- Jim
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic, (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL,
89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com
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