On the subject of an Uber manifold-- the TPS is well-nigh impossible to get off without disassembling the bypass- I've been trying the propane trick, but with the idle oscillating up to fuel cut and back... I haven't been able to diagnose anything. Is there any way I can use the Link to ignore the TPS enough? Maybe change the offset?
Just for kicks, I tried the propane trick while the engine was idle-oscillating- no difference. I unplugged the PCV and put the propane straight into that hose, and no difference! Matt On Mon, September 15, 2008 9:55 pm, Bill Cardell wrote: > It's an uber manifold, so that one isn't there. A plethora of new > possibilities for leaks instead. > > > Bill Cardell > TurboDog's Dad > www.flyinmiata.com > www.fmwestfield.com > orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S > Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check out the FAQ > section of our website > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ray Ayala > Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 8:27 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: [email protected] > Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak > > Have you already checked the infamous cap on the rear manifold nipple? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Ray Ayala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: <[email protected]> > Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:16 PM > Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak > > >> The original thing I tried was to block off the intake with a dog > 'Kong' >> modified with an air hose end. Thankfully, my wife thought of the > Kong >> before I had to go down to the adult toy store and look for what >> originally came to mind (Rhymes with 'mutt' plug). Just think of that >> conversation- "Honestly, I need the extra large one, for my car!" > <yeah, >> right, they would have thought". >> >> I ended up putting the (low) pressure in via the power-brake booster > hose. >> That did allow me to eliminate that hose and the stuff directly > connected >> to that- I unplug it from the SC, cover the hose end with my finger, > the >> hissing goes away. I definitely hear something that sounds like it is >> coming from the engine area, but I *really* don't want to take off the >> intake manifold, or the SC if I can help it. >> >> Matt >> >> On Mon, September 15, 2008 7:15 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: >>> Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see if there's > still >>> enough intake air to idle? On a TB I use a jar lid with a molded-on >>> gasket >>> as a cap but have never personally tried it with an SC inlet. >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> To: <[email protected]> >>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM >>> Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak >>> >>> >>>> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL > logs >>>> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in > the >>>> 40 >>>> range. So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a >>>> vacuum >>>> leak. I haven't found anything particularly bad. >>>> >>>> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak? I > tried >>>> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and > listening >>>> for >>>> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going > through >>>> an open intake valve?. One thing that I was wondering- how much of > the >>>> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed? I > did >>>> find >>>> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but >>>> wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the >>>> vacuum >>>> down to a more appropriate value. >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> Matt >>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger >>>> >>>> >>>> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: >>>>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal > show >>>>> that >>>>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak. The > idle >>>>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle >>>>> control >>>>> range (~1850 rpm). >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>>>> To: <[email protected]> >>>>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM >>>>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> Howdy folks, I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to >>>>>> remember >>>>>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take >>>>>> adequate >>>>>> notes. Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car > has >>>>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation" > is >>>>>> pretty >>>>>> bad. You can see both of these characteristics in this (really > long) >>>>>> log: >>>>>> >>>>>> > <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin> >>>>>> >>>>>> The vitals on this car: >>>>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature >>>>>> sensor) >>>>>> 550cc Injectors >>>>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail >>>>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95 > Link) >>>>>> AEM WB02 >>>>>> Stock engine internals >>>>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02 >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road > is >>>>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone >>>>>> created >>>>>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno? The one > that >>>>>> I >>>>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet). I want to tune > for >>>>>> 1) >>>>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to > be >>>>>> the >>>>>> same map :) >>>>>> >>>>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it >>>>>> because >>>>>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting >>>>>> timing? >>>>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with. >>>>>> >>>>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged? > I >>>>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings. If I tune > for >>>>>> one >>>>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or > can >>>>>> I >>>>>> just do it through the Link keypad? >>>>>> >>>>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I > went >>>>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning > manual- >>>>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision? >>>>>> >>>>>> Regards, >>>>>> >>>>>> Matt Bennett >>>>>> Austin, TX >>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> Miatapower mailing list >>>>>> [email protected] >>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Miatapower mailing list >>>> [email protected] >>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
