It took me a while to get to it, but re-opening an old thread, I wanted to
point out that I had a solution- I pressurized my intake, corking the
tailpipe and used my handy home-made smoke generator:

Dry-ice in a ketchup bottle wrapped in a towel (to insulate it), and duct
tape liberally applied, with a straw hot-glued into the lid to draw the
"smoke" from the center of the bottle when the bottle is inverted. Add
warm water to make the smoke start.

I saw an unusual amount of the fumes being pulled into a stream from just
about the most inaccessible place on the engine- under the supercharger
and above the manifold.  So it was off with the supercharger.  And look
what I found:
<http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=3583>
Can anyone tell me where the massive vacuum leak is?

I put a new gaskget in (a thinner, stronger material) and the MAP levels
are reading in the 30 range at idle, and no idle fuel-cut oscillations!

Now, I might just be able to tune!

Matt

Matt Bennett
'96 with prototype Ubercharger

On Sun, September 21, 2008 12:10 pm, Bill Cardell wrote:
> You don't need all the valves closed, just cork the tailpipe and inlet.
>
>
> Bill Cardell
> TurboDog's Dad
> www.flyinmiata.com
> www.fmwestfield.com
> orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S
> Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check out the FAQ
> section of our website
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Bennett [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:30 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Cc: Bill Cardell
> Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>
> Well, I did the disassembly to disconnect the TPS, and as soon as I
> start it, the RPM shoots up to 5000, and stays there.  The vacuum gauge
> is showing about 20 (I didn't take a look at what the Link was telling
> me).
> Adjusting the air screw doesn't make a bit of difference.  The Link is
> reading 50 on the TPS while unplugged.  I plug the TPS back in, and it
> goes back to the oscillating idle.
>
> I guess it's back to engine off diagnosis- pressurizing the intake-
> without taking the valve cover off to look at the camshafts, is there
> any other way/crankshaft position that will have all the intake valves
> closed?
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt Bennett
>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:54 AM
>> To: Bill Cardell
>> Cc: [email protected]
>> Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>
>> On the subject of an Uber manifold-- the TPS is well-nigh impossible
>> to get off without disassembling the bypass- I've been trying the
>> propane trick, but with the idle oscillating up to fuel cut and
>> back... I haven't been able to diagnose anything.  Is there any way I
>> can use the Link to ignore the TPS enough?  Maybe change the offset?
>>
>> Just for kicks, I tried the propane trick while the engine was
>> idle-oscillating- no difference.  I unplugged the PCV and put the
>> propane straight into that hose, and no difference!
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> On Mon, September 15, 2008 9:55 pm, Bill Cardell wrote:
>>> It's an uber manifold, so that one isn't there. A plethora of new
>>> possibilities for leaks instead.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Cardell
>>> TurboDog's Dad
>>> www.flyinmiata.com
>>> www.fmwestfield.com
>>> orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S
>>> Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check out the FAQ
>
>>> section of our website
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ray Ayala
>>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 8:27 PM
>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> Cc: [email protected]
>>> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>>
>>> Have you already checked the infamous cap on the rear manifold
> nipple?
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: "Ray Ayala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> Cc: <[email protected]>
>>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:16 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>>
>>>
>>>> The original thing I tried was to block off the intake with a dog
>>> 'Kong'
>>>> modified with an air hose end.  Thankfully, my wife thought of the
>>> Kong
>>>> before I had to go down to the adult toy store and look for what
>>>> originally came to mind (Rhymes with 'mutt' plug).  Just think of
>>>> that
>>>> conversation- "Honestly, I need the extra large one, for my car!"
>>> <yeah,
>>>> right, they would have thought".
>>>>
>>>> I ended up putting the (low) pressure in via the power-brake booster
>>> hose.
>>>> That did allow me to eliminate that hose and the stuff directly
>>> connected
>>>> to that- I unplug it from the SC, cover the hose end with my finger,
>>> the
>>>> hissing goes away.  I definitely hear something that sounds like it
>>>> is coming from the engine area, but I *really* don't want to take
>>>> off the intake manifold, or the SC if I can help it.
>>>>
>>>> Matt
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, September 15, 2008 7:15 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
>>>>> Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see if there's
>>> still
>>>>> enough intake air to idle?  On a TB I use a jar lid with a
>>>>> molded-on gasket as a cap but have never personally tried it with
>>>>> an SC inlet.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>> To: <[email protected]>
>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM
>>>>> Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL
>>> logs
>>>>>> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be
>>>>>> in
>>> the
>>>>>> 40
>>>>>> range.  So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a
>
>>>>>> vacuum leak.  I haven't found anything particularly bad.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak?  I
>>> tried
>>>>>> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and
>>> listening
>>>>>> for
>>>>>> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going
>>> through
>>>>>> an open intake valve?.  One thing that I was wondering- how much
>>>>>> of
>>> the
>>>>>> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed?  I
>>> did
>>>>>> find
>>>>>> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose,
>>>>>> but wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing
>
>>>>>> the vacuum down to a more appropriate value.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Matt
>>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
>>>>>>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal
>>> show
>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak.
>>>>>>> The
>>> idle
>>>>>>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the
>>>>>>> idle control range (~1850 rpm).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>>>> To: <[email protected]>
>>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM
>>>>>>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Howdy folks,  I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem
>>>>>>>> to remember this type of problem being discussed before, but I
>>>>>>>> didn't take adequate notes.  Right now, the most annoying
>>>>>>>> problem I have is that my car
>>> has
>>>>>>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation"
>>> is
>>>>>>>> pretty
>>>>>>>> bad.  You can see both of these characteristics in this (really
>>> long)
>>>>>>>> log:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The vitals on this car:
>>>>>>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air
>>>>>>>> temperature
>>>>>>>> sensor)
>>>>>>>> 550cc Injectors
>>>>>>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail
>>>>>>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95
>>> Link)
>>>>>>>> AEM WB02
>>>>>>>> Stock engine internals
>>>>>>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road
>>> is
>>>>>>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has
>>>>>>>> anyone created a script for the most cost effective way to use a
>
>>>>>>>> dyno?  The one
>>> that
>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet).  I want to
>>>>>>>> tune
>>> for
>>>>>>>> 1)
>>>>>>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have
>>>>>>>> to
>>> be
>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> same map :)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is
>>>>>>>> it because changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than
>
>>>>>>>> adjusting timing?
>>>>>>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors
> logged?
>>> I
>>>>>>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings.  If I tune
>>> for
>>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors,
>>>>>>>> or
>>> can
>>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>>> just do it through the Link keypad?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I
>>> went
>>>>>>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning
>>> manual-
>>>>>>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Matt Bennett
>>>>>>>> Austin, TX
>>>>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>> Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>>> [email protected]
>>>>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Miatapower mailing list
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>
>



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