Those gaskets were removed from the kit fairly early on. There was concern that they were allowing the case of the compressor to be torqued slightly, leading to failure. Later models were sealed with RTV, I believe.
Keith Tanner Flyin' Miata [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.flyinmiata.com 1-800-FLY-MX5s (orders) 1-970-464-5600 (tech) > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt Bennett > Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:11 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak > > It took me a while to get to it, but re-opening an old > thread, I wanted to point out that I had a solution- I > pressurized my intake, corking the tailpipe and used my handy > home-made smoke generator: > > Dry-ice in a ketchup bottle wrapped in a towel (to insulate > it), and duct tape liberally applied, with a straw hot-glued > into the lid to draw the "smoke" from the center of the > bottle when the bottle is inverted. Add warm water to make > the smoke start. > > I saw an unusual amount of the fumes being pulled into a > stream from just about the most inaccessible place on the > engine- under the supercharger and above the manifold. So it > was off with the supercharger. And look what I found: > <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.Show Item&g2_itemId=3583> > Can anyone tell me where the massive vacuum leak is? > > I put a new gaskget in (a thinner, stronger material) and the > MAP levels are reading in the 30 range at idle, and no idle > fuel-cut oscillations! > > Now, I might just be able to tune! > > Matt > > Matt Bennett > '96 with prototype Ubercharger > > On Sun, September 21, 2008 12:10 pm, Bill Cardell wrote: > > You don't need all the valves closed, just cork the > tailpipe and inlet. > > > > > > Bill Cardell > > TurboDog's Dad > > www.flyinmiata.com > > www.fmwestfield.com > > orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S > > Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check > out the FAQ > > section of our website > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Matt Bennett [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:30 AM > > To: [email protected] > > Cc: Bill Cardell > > Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak > > > > Well, I did the disassembly to disconnect the TPS, and as soon as I > > start it, the RPM shoots up to 5000, and stays there. The vacuum > > gauge is showing about 20 (I didn't take a look at what the > Link was > > telling me). > > Adjusting the air screw doesn't make a bit of difference. > The Link is > > reading 50 on the TPS while unplugged. I plug the TPS back > in, and it > > goes back to the oscillating idle. > > > > I guess it's back to engine off diagnosis- pressurizing the intake- > > without taking the valve cover off to look at the > camshafts, is there > > any other way/crankshaft position that will have all the > intake valves > > closed? > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of > Matt Bennett > >> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:54 AM > >> To: Bill Cardell > >> Cc: [email protected] > >> Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak > >> > >> On the subject of an Uber manifold-- the TPS is well-nigh > impossible > >> to get off without disassembling the bypass- I've been trying the > >> propane trick, but with the idle oscillating up to fuel cut and > >> back... I haven't been able to diagnose anything. Is > there any way I > >> can use the Link to ignore the TPS enough? Maybe change > the offset? > >> > >> Just for kicks, I tried the propane trick while the engine was > >> idle-oscillating- no difference. I unplugged the PCV and put the > >> propane straight into that hose, and no difference! > >> > >> Matt > >> > >> On Mon, September 15, 2008 9:55 pm, Bill Cardell wrote: > >>> It's an uber manifold, so that one isn't there. A plethora of new > >>> possibilities for leaks instead. > >>> > >>> > >>> Bill Cardell > >>> TurboDog's Dad > >>> www.flyinmiata.com > >>> www.fmwestfield.com > >>> orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S > >>> Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check out the > >>> FAQ > > > >>> section of our website > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> -----Original Message----- > >>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ray Ayala > >>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 8:27 PM > >>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>> Cc: [email protected] > >>> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak > >>> > >>> Have you already checked the infamous cap on the rear manifold > > nipple? > >>> > >>> > >>> ----- Original Message ----- > >>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> To: "Ray Ayala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>> Cc: <[email protected]> > >>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:16 PM > >>> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak > >>> > >>> > >>>> The original thing I tried was to block off the intake with a dog > >>> 'Kong' > >>>> modified with an air hose end. Thankfully, my wife > thought of the > >>> Kong > >>>> before I had to go down to the adult toy store and look for what > >>>> originally came to mind (Rhymes with 'mutt' plug). Just > think of > >>>> that > >>>> conversation- "Honestly, I need the extra large one, for my car!" > >>> <yeah, > >>>> right, they would have thought". > >>>> > >>>> I ended up putting the (low) pressure in via the power-brake > >>>> booster > >>> hose. > >>>> That did allow me to eliminate that hose and the stuff directly > >>> connected > >>>> to that- I unplug it from the SC, cover the hose end with my > >>>> finger, > >>> the > >>>> hissing goes away. I definitely hear something that > sounds like it > >>>> is coming from the engine area, but I *really* don't > want to take > >>>> off the intake manifold, or the SC if I can help it. > >>>> > >>>> Matt > >>>> > >>>> On Mon, September 15, 2008 7:15 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: > >>>>> Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see > if there's > >>> still > >>>>> enough intake air to idle? On a TB I use a jar lid with a > >>>>> molded-on gasket as a cap but have never personally > tried it with > >>>>> an SC inlet. > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> ----- Original Message ----- > >>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>>>> To: <[email protected]> > >>>>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM > >>>>> Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>>> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old > >>>>>> DLL > >>> logs > >>>>>> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 > used to be > >>>>>> in > >>> the > >>>>>> 40 > >>>>>> range. So I slapped myself around a bit and started > to look for > >>>>>> a > > > >>>>>> vacuum leak. I haven't found anything particularly bad. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak? I > >>> tried > >>>>>> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and > >>> listening > >>>>>> for > >>>>>> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- > possibly going > >>> through > >>>>>> an open intake valve?. One thing that I was > wondering- how much > >>>>>> of > >>> the > >>>>>> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves > closed? I > >>> did > >>>>>> find > >>>>>> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's > vacuum hose, > >>>>>> but wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to > >>>>>> bringing > > > >>>>>> the vacuum down to a more appropriate value. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Regards, > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Matt > >>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: > >>>>>>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the > map signal > >>> show > >>>>>>> that > >>>>>>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak. > >>>>>>> The > >>> idle > >>>>>>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the > >>>>>>> idle control range (~1850 rpm). > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- > >>>>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >>>>>>> To: <[email protected]> > >>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM > >>>>>>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Howdy folks, I'm trying to figure out my latest > issue, I seem > >>>>>>>> to remember this type of problem being discussed > before, but I > >>>>>>>> didn't take adequate notes. Right now, the most annoying > >>>>>>>> problem I have is that my car > >>> has > >>>>>>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle > oscillation" > >>> is > >>>>>>>> pretty > >>>>>>>> bad. You can see both of these characteristics in > this (really > >>> long) > >>>>>>>> log: > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>> > <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> The vitals on this car: > >>>>>>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air > >>>>>>>> temperature > >>>>>>>> sensor) > >>>>>>>> 550cc Injectors > >>>>>>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail > >>>>>>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a > >>>>>>>> 94-95 > >>> Link) > >>>>>>>> AEM WB02 > >>>>>>>> Stock engine internals > >>>>>>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02 > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the > >>>>>>>> road > >>> is > >>>>>>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has > >>>>>>>> anyone created a script for the most cost effective > way to use > >>>>>>>> a > > > >>>>>>>> dyno? The one > >>> that > >>>>>>>> I > >>>>>>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet). I want to > >>>>>>>> tune > >>> for > >>>>>>>> 1) > >>>>>>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 > don't have > >>>>>>>> to > >>> be > >>>>>>>> the > >>>>>>>> same map :) > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be > with fuel- is > >>>>>>>> it because changing fuel zones is easier and more effective > >>>>>>>> than > > > >>>>>>>> adjusting timing? > >>>>>>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with. > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors > > logged? > >>> I > >>>>>>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings. If I > >>>>>>>> tune > >>> for > >>>>>>>> one > >>>>>>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move > between sensors, > >>>>>>>> or > >>> can > >>>>>>>> I > >>>>>>>> just do it through the Link keypad? > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals > from FM- I > >>> went > >>>>>>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the > Link tuning > >>> manual- > >>>>>>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision? > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Regards, > >>>>>>>> > >>>>>>>> Matt Bennett > >>>>>>>> Austin, TX > >>>>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger > >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>>>> Miatapower mailing list > >>>>>>>> [email protected] > >>>>>>>> > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > >>>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> Miatapower mailing list > >>>>>> [email protected] > >>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > >>>>> > >>>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Miatapower mailing list > >>> [email protected] > >>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > >>> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Miatapower mailing list > >> [email protected] > >> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > >> > >> > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
