Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see if there's still 
enough intake air to idle?  On a TB I use a jar lid with a molded-on gasket 
as a cap but have never personally tried it with an SC inlet.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM
Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak


> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL logs
> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in the 40
> range.  So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a vacuum
> leak.  I haven't found anything particularly bad.
>
> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak?  I tried
> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and listening for
> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going through
> an open intake valve?.  One thing that I was wondering- how much of the
> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed?  I did find
> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but
> wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the vacuum
> down to a more appropriate value.
>
> Regards,
>
> Matt
> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>
>
> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal show 
>> that
>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak.  The idle
>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle 
>> control
>> range (~1850 rpm).
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM
>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help
>>
>>
>>> Howdy folks,  I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to
>>> remember
>>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take adequate
>>> notes.  Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car has
>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation" is
>>> pretty
>>> bad.  You can see both of these characteristics in this (really long)
>>> log:
>>>
>>> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin>
>>>
>>> The vitals on this car:
>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature
>>> sensor)
>>> 550cc Injectors
>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail
>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95 Link)
>>> AEM WB02
>>> Stock engine internals
>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02
>>>
>>>
>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road is
>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone
>>> created
>>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno?  The one that I
>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet).  I want to tune for 1)
>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to be
>>> the
>>> same map :)
>>>
>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it
>>> because
>>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting timing?
>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with.
>>>
>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged? I
>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings.  If I tune for one
>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or can I
>>> just do it through the Link keypad?
>>>
>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I went
>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning manual-
>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision?
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Matt Bennett
>>> Austin, TX
>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Miatapower mailing list
>>> [email protected]
>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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