Well, I did the disassembly to disconnect the TPS, and as soon as I start
it, the RPM shoots up to 5000, and stays there.  The vacuum gauge is
showing about 20 (I didn't take a look at what the Link was telling me). 
Adjusting the air screw doesn't make a bit of difference.  The Link is
reading 50 on the TPS while unplugged.  I plug the TPS back in, and it
goes back to the oscillating idle.

I guess it's back to engine off diagnosis- pressurizing the intake-
without taking the valve cover off to look at the camshafts, is there any
other way/crankshaft position that will have all the intake valves closed?


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt Bennett
> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 10:54 AM
> To: Bill Cardell
> Cc: [email protected]
> Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>
> On the subject of an Uber manifold-- the TPS is well-nigh impossible to
> get off without disassembling the bypass- I've been trying the propane
> trick, but with the idle oscillating up to fuel cut and back... I haven't
> been able to diagnose anything.  Is there any way I can use the Link to
> ignore the TPS enough?  Maybe change the offset?
>
> Just for kicks, I tried the propane trick while the engine was
> idle-oscillating- no difference.  I unplugged the PCV and put the propane
> straight into that hose, and no difference!
>
> Matt
>
> On Mon, September 15, 2008 9:55 pm, Bill Cardell wrote:
>> It's an uber manifold, so that one isn't there. A plethora of new
>> possibilities for leaks instead.
>>
>>
>> Bill Cardell
>> TurboDog's Dad
>> www.flyinmiata.com
>> www.fmwestfield.com
>> orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S
>> Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check out the FAQ
>> section of our website
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ray Ayala
>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 8:27 PM
>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Cc: [email protected]
>> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>
>> Have you already checked the infamous cap on the rear manifold nipple?
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Ray Ayala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> Cc: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:16 PM
>> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>
>>
>>> The original thing I tried was to block off the intake with a dog
>> 'Kong'
>>> modified with an air hose end.  Thankfully, my wife thought of the
>> Kong
>>> before I had to go down to the adult toy store and look for what
>>> originally came to mind (Rhymes with 'mutt' plug).  Just think of that
>>> conversation- "Honestly, I need the extra large one, for my car!"
>> <yeah,
>>> right, they would have thought".
>>>
>>> I ended up putting the (low) pressure in via the power-brake booster
>> hose.
>>> That did allow me to eliminate that hose and the stuff directly
>> connected
>>> to that- I unplug it from the SC, cover the hose end with my finger,
>> the
>>> hissing goes away.  I definitely hear something that sounds like it is
>>> coming from the engine area, but I *really* don't want to take off the
>>> intake manifold, or the SC if I can help it.
>>>
>>> Matt
>>>
>>> On Mon, September 15, 2008 7:15 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
>>>> Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see if there's
>> still
>>>> enough intake air to idle?  On a TB I use a jar lid with a molded-on
>>>> gasket
>>>> as a cap but have never personally tried it with an SC inlet.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> To: <[email protected]>
>>>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM
>>>> Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL
>> logs
>>>>> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in
>> the
>>>>> 40
>>>>> range.  So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a
>>>>> vacuum
>>>>> leak.  I haven't found anything particularly bad.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak?  I
>> tried
>>>>> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and
>> listening
>>>>> for
>>>>> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going
>> through
>>>>> an open intake valve?.  One thing that I was wondering- how much of
>> the
>>>>> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed?  I
>> did
>>>>> find
>>>>> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but
>>>>> wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the
>>>>> vacuum
>>>>> down to a more appropriate value.
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>
>>>>> Matt
>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote:
>>>>>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal
>> show
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak.  The
>> idle
>>>>>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle
>>>>>> control
>>>>>> range (~1850 rpm).
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>>> To: <[email protected]>
>>>>>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM
>>>>>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Howdy folks,  I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to
>>>>>>> remember
>>>>>>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take
>>>>>>> adequate
>>>>>>> notes.  Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car
>> has
>>>>>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation"
>> is
>>>>>>> pretty
>>>>>>> bad.  You can see both of these characteristics in this (really
>> long)
>>>>>>> log:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The vitals on this car:
>>>>>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature
>>>>>>> sensor)
>>>>>>> 550cc Injectors
>>>>>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail
>>>>>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95
>> Link)
>>>>>>> AEM WB02
>>>>>>> Stock engine internals
>>>>>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road
>> is
>>>>>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone
>>>>>>> created
>>>>>>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno?  The one
>> that
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet).  I want to tune
>> for
>>>>>>> 1)
>>>>>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to
>> be
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> same map :)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it
>>>>>>> because
>>>>>>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting
>>>>>>> timing?
>>>>>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged?
>> I
>>>>>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings.  If I tune
>> for
>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or
>> can
>>>>>>> I
>>>>>>> just do it through the Link keypad?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I
>> went
>>>>>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning
>> manual-
>>>>>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Matt Bennett
>>>>>>> Austin, TX
>>>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> Miatapower mailing list
>>>>>>> [email protected]
>>>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Miatapower mailing list
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>>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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