On 4/10/2011 5:25 PM, Ross Kuhns wrote:
If the hoses are only a year old, they should come off;
take a pair of slotted type pliers/grips and you can
usually work them back and forth a touch as you pull -
tool is set perpendicular to the pipe/hose. Of course
don't squeeze too hard, those pipes are soft. If you try
to confirm flow thru the core, make sure not to use too
much psi, system doesn't run under too much pressure (what
13psi?).
Ross
On Apr 10, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Ken Bogart wrote:
I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its
blocked and needs replacement, a temporary bypass will
certainly work to keep you on the road.
Ken Bogart
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97 Black & Tan (Hers)
90 Crystal White (sons)
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On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt
<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad water
pump, or just a clogged heater core. The hose at the
output of the heater core has been spliced to insert
a GM temperature sensor in the line. [Other than the
temp sensor splice, the cooling system is stock.]
The GM sensor is reading correctly - it reads cold
and the heater line *is* cold. However, at the back
of the head, the sensor which goes to the dash reads
very hot (after the engine has warmed up, of course).
It is as if there is no flow out the back of the head.
Things I've tried:
0. Removed thermostat, put housing back. Still
overheats. Have new tstat, but have not installed.
1. Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the inline
housing. Can see daylight through the hose
connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing is not
clogged and not impeding coolant flow.
2. Added classic coolant flush tee in place of the
inline temp sensor. Flushed 12 gallons thru system.
Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say so. It
still does not quite look like clean water, but it is
far more water like than before.
3. Put back GM temp sensor.
4. Refilled with water. Installed a burp bucket on
radiator, ran engine. Filled bucket 1/3 way. Bottom
rad hose does not seem like it is full of coolant.
Feels like it is not uniformly hot. Tried squeezing
hoses, etc to burp. Not much happened with respect
to coolant level. Engine heated up - back of head
sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite
cool to the touch.
What I'm going to do next:
1. Bypass heater core. Is there an 'easy' way to
get these hoses off? I cut them when I replaced them
last summer. Are they 'welded' on by now?
2. Maybe, flush core, if above works.
Anything else?
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Well, I didn't quite do things in order. I flushed the
heater core. (Pulled heater hoses, attached garden hose
with anti-backflow to one side, attached 6 foot hose to
bucket on the other side.) Nasty, but eventually ran sort
of clear. So it is NOT the heater core. Loads of water ran
through it - it does not appear to be a restriction. No
water in the cabin, either - thank goodness.
Then I back flushed the head. In the water neck in the back
of the head - out the other pipe to the heater core.
Hooked everything up again. Filled through burping funnel.
No apparent flow through the core. However, the thermostat
is NOT installed.
Is the thermostat required for the heater core to get water
flow?
I have a standard new Stant thermostat. Do I need to drill
out the 'jiggler'? Hole size? Hole is up, correct?
Is there a good test for a water pump? Looks like I'm
running out of ideas. Carried off 50 gallons of 'water'.
What a fruitless day.
Got insight?
Thanks
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