Both!
Timing belt was done at 60K. I didn't do it myself. I'll
try to search my records if the water pump was done too. (I
hope it was...)
When I put the car away in the fall I noticed some gurgling
at shutdown. No overheating then. I did replace the
radiator cap then, hoping that would address the issue.
Arghh, sounding more like a water pump. FWIW, car was
immediately shutdown after the first geyser! Still idles
well...
-Bruce
On 4/10/2011 8:32 PM, bill zimmerman wrote:
Was the car overheating or just no heat from the heater? Did you replace the
water pump when you did the last timing belt? If the water pump is bad the
car will overheat and you will have much bigger problems than cold toes! BZ
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 8:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
Anyway to definitively test the water pump without pulling
the timing belt?
Do I need to install the thermostat to positively identify
this? I left it out while messing with the system to try to
minimize the suspects.
-Bruce
On 4/10/2011 8:10 PM, Bill Bowser wrote:
Sounds like it could be the water pump to me. Many years
ago I had a similar problem. It turned out to be a bad
water pump. The impeller had come lose from the shaft. It
didn't vibrate or make any noise, it didn't leak, and it
didn't pump any water either. You couldn't tell anything
was wrong by looking at it, but when you restrained the
impeller you could easily turn the shaft by hand. I showed
it to a couple of mechanics who said they never saw
anything like it.
Bill Bowser
On 4/10/2011 7:58 PM, Bruce Labitt wrote:
On 4/10/2011 7:42 PM, bill zimmerman wrote:
Late coming in on this and have not read other posts but
if your problem
came after any cooling system work, hose replacement,
etc, make sure you
don't have an air lock in the system, which frequently
will result in no
heat from the heater while everything else functions
normally. Would not
suspect a water pump problem if the motor is not
overheating or signs of
leakage around the pump. BZ
Original problem - overheat - radiator cap let go -
coolant everywhere. Replaced cap, added water - trouble
ever since. Engine overheats.
Could be air lock. How do you get rid of it? I used a
coolant funnel attached to radiator cap. Attempted to
squeeze hoses... Car is not level right now. Front end
is on jackstands. Problem?
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Bruce Labitt
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:22 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
On 4/10/2011 5:25 PM, Ross Kuhns wrote:
If the hoses are only a year old, they should come off;
take a pair of slotted type pliers/grips and you can
usually work them back and forth a touch as you pull -
tool is set perpendicular to the pipe/hose. Of course
don't squeeze too hard, those pipes are soft. If you try
to confirm flow thru the core, make sure not to use too
much psi, system doesn't run under too much pressure (what
13psi?).
Ross
On Apr 10, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Ken Bogart wrote:
I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its
blocked and needs replacement, a temporary bypass will
certainly work to keep you on the road.
Ken Bogart
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90 Crystal White (sons)
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On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt
<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad water
pump, or just a clogged heater core. The hose at
the
output of the heater core has been spliced to insert
a GM temperature sensor in the line. [Other than
the
temp sensor splice, the cooling system is stock.]
The GM sensor is reading correctly - it reads cold
and the heater line *is* cold. However, at the back
of the head, the sensor which goes to the dash reads
very hot (after the engine has warmed up, of
course).
It is as if there is no flow out the back of the
head.
Things I've tried:
0. Removed thermostat, put housing back. Still
overheats. Have new tstat, but have not installed.
1. Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the inline
housing. Can see daylight through the hose
connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing is not
clogged and not impeding coolant flow.
2. Added classic coolant flush tee in place of the
inline temp sensor. Flushed 12 gallons thru system.
Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say so. It
still does not quite look like clean water, but
it is
far more water like than before.
3. Put back GM temp sensor.
4. Refilled with water. Installed a burp bucket on
radiator, ran engine. Filled bucket 1/3 way.
Bottom
rad hose does not seem like it is full of coolant.
Feels like it is not uniformly hot. Tried
squeezing
hoses, etc to burp. Not much happened with respect
to coolant level. Engine heated up - back of head
sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite
cool to the touch.
What I'm going to do next:
1. Bypass heater core. Is there an 'easy' way to
get these hoses off? I cut them when I replaced
them
last summer. Are they 'welded' on by now?
2. Maybe, flush core, if above works.
Anything else?
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Well, I didn't quite do things in order. I flushed the
heater core. (Pulled heater hoses, attached garden hose
with anti-backflow to one side, attached 6 foot hose to
bucket on the other side.) Nasty, but eventually ran sort
of clear. So it is NOT the heater core. Loads of water
ran
through it - it does not appear to be a restriction. No
water in the cabin, either - thank goodness.
Then I back flushed the head. In the water neck in the
back
of the head - out the other pipe to the heater core.
Hooked everything up again. Filled through burping funnel.
No apparent flow through the core. However, the thermostat
is NOT installed.
Is the thermostat required for the heater core to get water
flow?
I have a standard new Stant thermostat. Do I need to drill
out the 'jiggler'? Hole size? Hole is up, correct?
Is there a good test for a water pump? Looks like I'm
running out of ideas. Carried off 50 gallons of 'water'.
What a fruitless day.
Got insight?
Thanks
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