Do I need to install the thermostat to positively identify this? I left it out while messing with the system to try to minimize the suspects.
-Bruce On 4/10/2011 8:10 PM, Bill Bowser wrote:
Sounds like it could be the water pump to me. Many years ago I had a similar problem. It turned out to be a bad water pump. The impeller had come lose from the shaft. It didn't vibrate or make any noise, it didn't leak, and it didn't pump any water either. You couldn't tell anything was wrong by looking at it, but when you restrained the impeller you could easily turn the shaft by hand. I showed it to a couple of mechanics who said they never saw anything like it.Bill Bowser On 4/10/2011 7:58 PM, Bruce Labitt wrote:On 4/10/2011 7:42 PM, bill zimmerman wrote:Late coming in on this and have not read other posts but if your problem came after any cooling system work, hose replacement, etc, make sure you don't have an air lock in the system, which frequently will result in no heat from the heater while everything else functions normally. Would not suspect a water pump problem if the motor is not overheating or signs ofleakage around the pump. BZOriginal problem - overheat - radiator cap let go - coolant everywhere. Replaced cap, added water - trouble ever since. Engine overheats.Could be air lock. How do you get rid of it? I used a coolant funnel attached to radiator cap. Attempted to squeeze hoses... Car is not level right now. Front end is on jackstands. Problem?-----Original Message----- From: [email protected][mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce LabittSent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:22 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or? On 4/10/2011 5:25 PM, Ross Kuhns wrote:If the hoses are only a year old, they should come off; take a pair of slotted type pliers/grips and you can usually work them back and forth a touch as you pull - tool is set perpendicular to the pipe/hose. Of course don't squeeze too hard, those pipes are soft. If you try to confirm flow thru the core, make sure not to use too much psi, system doesn't run under too much pressure (what 13psi?). Ross On Apr 10, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Ken Bogart wrote:I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its blocked and needs replacement, a temporary bypass will certainly work to keep you on the road. Ken Bogart ----------------------------------------------------- 96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His) 97 Black& Tan (Hers) 90 Crystal White (sons) ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.miatacare.com<http://www.miatacare.com/> http://www.cincimiata.com<http://www.cincimiata.com/> http://www.bcchallenger.org<http://www.bcchallenger.org/> MiataMail.com<http://MiataMail.com> list owner On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad waterpump, or just a clogged heater core. The hose at theoutput of the heater core has been spliced to inserta GM temperature sensor in the line. [Other than thetemp sensor splice, the cooling system is stock.] The GM sensor is reading correctly - it reads cold and the heater line *is* cold. However, at the back of the head, the sensor which goes to the dash readsvery hot (after the engine has warmed up, of course). It is as if there is no flow out the back of the head.Things I've tried: 0. Removed thermostat, put housing back. Still overheats. Have new tstat, but have not installed. 1. Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the inline housing. Can see daylight through the hose connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing is not clogged and not impeding coolant flow. 2. Added classic coolant flush tee in place of the inline temp sensor. Flushed 12 gallons thru system. Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say so. Itstill does not quite look like clean water, but it isfar more water like than before. 3. Put back GM temp sensor. 4. Refilled with water. Installed a burp bucket onradiator, ran engine. Filled bucket 1/3 way. Bottomrad hose does not seem like it is full of coolant.Feels like it is not uniformly hot. Tried squeezinghoses, etc to burp. Not much happened with respect to coolant level. Engine heated up - back of head sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite cool to the touch. What I'm going to do next: 1. Bypass heater core. Is there an 'easy' way toget these hoses off? I cut them when I replaced themlast summer. Are they 'welded' on by now? 2. Maybe, flush core, if above works. Anything else? _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower_______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapowerWell, I didn't quite do things in order. I flushed the heater core. (Pulled heater hoses, attached garden hose with anti-backflow to one side, attached 6 foot hose to bucket on the other side.) Nasty, but eventually ran sortof clear. So it is NOT the heater core. Loads of water ranthrough it - it does not appear to be a restriction. No water in the cabin, either - thank goodness.Then I back flushed the head. In the water neck in the backof the head - out the other pipe to the heater core. Hooked everything up again. Filled through burping funnel. No apparent flow through the core. However, the thermostat is NOT installed. Is the thermostat required for the heater core to get water flow? I have a standard new Stant thermostat. Do I need to drill out the 'jiggler'? Hole size? Hole is up, correct? Is there a good test for a water pump? Looks like I'm running out of ideas. Carried off 50 gallons of 'water'. What a fruitless day. Got insight? Thanks _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected]http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower_______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected]http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.comVersion: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3564 - Release Date: 04/10/11_______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
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