Now we're at the root of the problem, why did it overheat, not because of
the heater core. It may have had a bad radiator, leaking and you didn't
notice it, or it might be a bad water pump, also leaking and you didn't
notice it, either way, low on coolant and overheating. Very good chance you
have a warped head and leaking head gasket at this point, check for water in
the oil, oil residue in the radiator, and do a compression check. Go forward
from there, from the way you describe it I'm pretty sure you are going to
find a head gasket problem.  BZ

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:59 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?

On 4/10/2011 7:42 PM, bill zimmerman wrote:
> Late coming in on this and have not read other posts but if your problem
> came after any cooling system work, hose replacement, etc, make sure you
> don't have an air lock in the system, which frequently will result in no
> heat from the heater while everything else functions normally. Would not
> suspect a water pump problem if the motor is not overheating or signs of
> leakage around the pump.  BZ
>

Original problem - overheat - radiator cap let go - coolant 
everywhere.  Replaced cap, added water - trouble ever 
since.  Engine overheats.

Could be air lock.  How do you get rid of it?  I used a 
coolant funnel attached to radiator cap.  Attempted to 
squeeze hoses...  Car is not level right now.  Front end is 
on jackstands.  Problem?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Bruce Labitt
> Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 7:22 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: Diagnosing Bad Water Pump, or Heater Core or?
>
> On 4/10/2011 5:25 PM, Ross Kuhns wrote:
>> If the hoses are only a year old, they should come off;
>> take a pair of slotted type pliers/grips and you can
>> usually work them back and forth a touch as you pull -
>> tool is set perpendicular to the pipe/hose. Of course
>> don't squeeze too hard, those pipes are soft. If you try
>> to confirm flow thru the core, make sure not to use too
>> much psi, system doesn't run under too much pressure (what
>> 13psi?).
>>
>> Ross
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 10, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Ken Bogart wrote:
>>
>>> I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its
>>> blocked and needs replacement, a temporary bypass will
>>> certainly work to keep you on the road.
>>>
>>>
>>> Ken Bogart
>>> -----------------------------------------------------
>>> 96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
>>> 97 Black&  Tan (Hers)
>>> 90 Crystal White (sons)
>>> ------------------------------------------------------
>>> http://www.miatacare.com<http://www.miatacare.com/>
>>> http://www.cincimiata.com<http://www.cincimiata.com/>
>>> http://www.bcchallenger.org<http://www.bcchallenger.org/>
>>> MiataMail.com<http://MiataMail.com>  list owner
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt
>>> <[email protected]
>>> <mailto:[email protected]>>  wrote:
>>>
>>>      I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad water
>>>      pump, or just a clogged heater core.  The hose at the
>>>      output of the heater core has been spliced to insert
>>>      a GM temperature sensor in the line.  [Other than the
>>>      temp sensor splice, the cooling system is stock.]
>>>       The GM sensor is reading correctly - it reads cold
>>>      and the heater line *is* cold. However, at the back
>>>      of the head, the sensor which goes to the dash reads
>>>      very hot (after the engine has warmed up, of course).
>>>       It is as if there is no flow out the back of the head.
>>>
>>>      Things I've tried:
>>>      0.  Removed thermostat, put housing back.  Still
>>>      overheats.  Have new tstat, but have not installed.
>>>      1.  Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the inline
>>>      housing.  Can see daylight through the hose
>>>      connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing is not
>>>      clogged and not impeding coolant flow.
>>>      2.  Added classic coolant flush tee in place of the
>>>      inline temp sensor.  Flushed 12 gallons thru system.
>>>       Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say so.  It
>>>      still does not quite look like clean water, but it is
>>>      far more water like than before.
>>>      3.  Put back GM temp sensor.
>>>      4.  Refilled with water.  Installed a burp bucket on
>>>      radiator, ran engine.  Filled bucket 1/3 way.  Bottom
>>>      rad hose does not seem like it is full of coolant.
>>>       Feels like it is not uniformly hot.  Tried squeezing
>>>      hoses, etc to burp.  Not much happened with respect
>>>      to coolant level. Engine heated up - back of head
>>>      sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite
>>>      cool to the touch.
>>>
>>>      What I'm going to do next:
>>>      1.  Bypass heater core.  Is there an 'easy' way to
>>>      get these hoses off?  I cut them when I replaced them
>>>      last summer. Are they 'welded' on by now?
>>>      2. Maybe, flush core, if above works.
>>>
>>>      Anything else?
>>>
>>>      _______________________________________________
>>>      Miatapower mailing list
>>>      [email protected]
>>>      <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>      http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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> Well, I didn't quite do things in order.  I flushed the
> heater core.  (Pulled heater hoses, attached garden hose
> with anti-backflow to one side, attached 6 foot hose to
> bucket on the other side.)  Nasty, but eventually ran sort
> of clear.  So it is NOT the heater core.  Loads of water ran
> through it - it does not appear to be a restriction.  No
> water in the cabin, either - thank goodness.
>
> Then I back flushed the head.  In the water neck in the back
> of the head - out the other pipe to the heater core.
>
> Hooked everything up again.  Filled through burping funnel.
> No apparent flow through the core.  However, the thermostat
> is NOT installed.
>
> Is the thermostat required for the heater core to get water
> flow?
>
> I have a standard new Stant thermostat.  Do I need to drill
> out the 'jiggler'?  Hole size?  Hole is up, correct?
>
> Is there a good test for a water pump?  Looks like I'm
> running out of ideas.  Carried off 50 gallons of 'water'.
> What a fruitless day.
>
> Got insight?
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Miatapower mailing list
> [email protected]
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>
>

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