I would flush the heater core to verify flow. If its blocked and needs
replacement, a temporary bypass will certainly work to keep you on the
road.


Ken Bogart
-----------------------------------------------------
96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
97 Black & Tan (Hers)
90 Crystal White (sons)
------------------------------------------------------
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On Sun, Apr 10, 2011 at 2:32 PM, Bruce Labitt
<[email protected]>wrote:

> I'm trying to diagnose if I have either a bad water pump, or just a clogged
> heater core.  The hose at the output of the heater core has been spliced to
> insert a GM temperature sensor in the line.  [Other than the temp sensor
> splice, the cooling system is stock.]  The GM sensor is reading correctly -
> it reads cold and the heater line *is* cold. However, at the back of the
> head, the sensor which goes to the dash reads very hot (after the engine has
> warmed up, of course).  It is as if there is no flow out the back of the
> head.
>
> Things I've tried:
> 0.  Removed thermostat, put housing back.  Still overheats.  Have new
> tstat, but have not installed.
> 1.  Remove GM sensor splice, and inspect the inline housing.  Can see
> daylight through the hose connections. Conclusion: temp sensor housing is
> not clogged and not impeding coolant flow.
> 2.  Added classic coolant flush tee in place of the inline temp sensor.
>  Flushed 12 gallons thru system.  Pretty ugly looking coolant, if I must say
> so.  It still does not quite look like clean water, but it is far more water
> like than before.
> 3.  Put back GM temp sensor.
> 4.  Refilled with water.  Installed a burp bucket on radiator, ran engine.
>  Filled bucket 1/3 way.  Bottom rad hose does not seem like it is full of
> coolant.  Feels like it is not uniformly hot.  Tried squeezing hoses, etc to
> burp.  Not much happened with respect to coolant level. Engine heated up -
> back of head sensor showed quite warm - heater core loop quite cool to the
> touch.
>
> What I'm going to do next:
> 1.  Bypass heater core.  Is there an 'easy' way to get these hoses off?  I
> cut them when I replaced them last summer. Are they 'welded' on by now?
> 2. Maybe, flush core, if above works.
>
> Anything else?
>
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