Pretty elegant Joe.  For battery charging, triggering off the voltage is way 
less work than monitoring frequency and works just as well. I built my own dump 
(using the design published in an old Mother Earth News magazine) running into 
either a 240V/500W baseboard in the dining room or the hot water heater. 
However, I may get one of those Morningstars as a backup. A properly-
functioning diverter is a critical component in our type of hydro-generator 
setup.

Rob



Quoting Joseph Hartvigsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with Rob that for small systems it is much simpler and more
> 
> reliable to regulate the power rather than the water flow. Most of
> 
> these small systems will be used for battery charging, but the power
> 
> may be delivered as AC at higher voltage. In such cases there is an
> 
> easy way to regulate the system by putting the dump load across the AC
> 
> line rather than the DC. 
> 
> 
> 
> Rather than deal in general terms I'll explain how my recently
> 
> modified system is set up.
> 
> 
> 
> Power comes from the turbine driven induction motor as 3 phase AC at
> 
> about 167V. 
> 
> 
> 
> [A side note: It is at 167V because it then goes to 3 transformers
> 
> setup as 240V (delta) primaries and 32V wye/star secondaries then to a
> 
> 3 phase bridge rectifier with the output connected to a 48V (56V
> 
> typical) battery bank. Unlike single phase, where the RMS voltage of
> 
> the rectified sinewave DC output is exactly the same as the RMS AC
> 
> input, in 3 phase the DC output voltage is 1.35 times the leg to leg
> 
> AC voltage. So, the battery clamps the rectifier output to 48-56V
> 
> depending on state of charge, which means the AC phase to phase input
> 
> is ~52/1.35 = 38.6Vac, which means each of the transformer secondaries
> 
> forming the wye/star is 38.6/sqrt(3) = 22.3Vac, that means the
> 
> primaries are 240*22.3/32 = 167V. If I had used nominal 24V output
> 
> transformers in wye to the 3 phase bridge, the primaries would run
> 
> closer to the rated voltage.  24*1.35*sqrt(3) = 56.1V  ]
> 
> 
> 
> I used a solar charge controller, Morningstar TS-45 and configured it
> 
> in diversion load mode with its inputs connected to the battery +/-
> 
> and outputs connected to two resistors in series. These resistors can be
> 
> relatively low wattage, sized for only 30-50mA. For example with 60V
> 
> peak battery equalization voltage, split across two resistors 50mA*30V
> 
> = 1.5W  and 30V/0.05A = 600ohm.  So you could go with two standard
> 
> value 680 ohm or even 1k-ohm resistors rated at 5W or 10W connected in
> 
> series and connected across the TS-45 load +/- terminals. Clearly this
> 
> won't dissipate much power, but it does provide a 24-28Vdc signal
> 
> between the load (-) terminal and the point between the two resistors
> 
> which I use to fire AC solid state relays (SSRs). If you have a 12 or
> 
> 24V battery bank you can fire the 3-32Vdc triggered type AC SSR
> 
> directly from the TS-45 output terminals. If you have higher than a
> 
> 48V battery bank use more of the resistors in series and take the SSR
> 
> trigger (+) signal from the opposite lead of the resistor connected to
> 
> the (-) terminal.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, whenever the battery bank voltage is at the control limit, the
> 
> TS-45 in trying to dump power actually just sends a signal to trigger
> 
> the SSRs. The SSRs are connected to AC line voltage from the hydro on
> 
> one side, and a load resistor on the other side. You can find these
> 
> relays rated to 25A (using a heat sink) at 240V for about $20 each at
> 
> most electrical supply places. 
> 
> 
> 
> I had previously used some old oven and drier heating elements, but
> 
> they took up too much space on the wall. So I put three 300W 16ohm
> 
> edgewound and enamel coated resistors in series across the 167V from
> 
> the hydro. That will dump in my case ~580W, but it is easy enough to
> 
> size these resistors to dump what power you need at the generator line
> 
> voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased the resistors from digikey.com The 300W version are $16.48
> 
> each, part number FVE-300-xx (xx is resistance in ohms from 0.5, 1.2,
> 
> 2.0, 5.0, 8.0, 10, 12, 16, and 20). A larger 1000W resistor (black
> 
> silicone finish rather than enamel coated) is available for  $51.50
> 
> each, part number FSE1000-xxx (-.25, .50, 1.0, 3.5, 4.5, 10, 15). Both
> 
> also have a mounting kit available.  Of course if you have a useful AC
> 
> load of appropriate power and voltage rating that can be connected and
> 
> disconnected such as a water heater use it.
> 
> 
> 
> So, in simple terms, the PV load controller senses battery voltage,
> 
> triggers SSRs which connect an the AC diversion load across the  lines
> 
> from the hydro.  
> 
> 
> 
>    Joe
> 
> 
> 
>    http://h-hydro.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> >
> 
> > A quick general note regarding regulation. It is my experience that
> 
> in smaller 
> 
> > systems regulation is best done at the electrical output end rather
> 
> then water 
> 
> > intake end. A power diverter using IGBT or TRIAC power elements, or
> 
> even 
> 
> > relays, is by far the cheapest and most reliable way to govern the
> 
> output of < 
> 
> > 5 kilowatt output systems. In the < 100 volt range these units are
> 
> available 
> 
> > off the shelf from many vendors, while the 120V and up systems are
> 
> more costly 
> 
> > and somewhat harder to to source. At the end of the day they are
> 
> still a better 
> 
> > investment if only for the reason that you might still want one even
> 
> with a 
> 
> > water flow diverter installed, in case the valve sticks open.
> 
> > 
> 
> > Rob
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > Quoting tom kasmer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:
> 
> > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > using a PM motor as a generator has the following
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > tenet. It has
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > no regulation mechanism other than shaft speed, so
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > here's what I suggest. You could rig up a smart bypass
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > of the flow to regulate the speed so as to regulate
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > the output power. Im sure that a magnetically coupled
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > rotor excitation will indeed be expensive.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > Having a lot of experience in the fields of
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > electricity and magnetism, unless this fancy generator
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > has a few successful years
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > of use in the field, I would stay away from it. You
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > will have little or no recourse if it fails since is
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > not in a car. Tom
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > --- williameverettstone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > Thanks for the reply.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 50gpm is the minimum flow even in times of drought.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > Several formulas on the net showed we could expect
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > to produce about 20
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > watts w/ 50gpm and 4-5' head. This equates to 1.6
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > amps at 12 volts. I
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > figured 1-1.5 just to be realistic.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > Thanks for the advice on PM motors, I'll check them
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > out. Since posting
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > I found that Delco has come out with brushless
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > alternators available
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > in 12, 24 and 48 volts. I'm waiting for a quote on
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > one now, rewound to
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > produce at lower RPM. I expect it's going to be too
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > pricey.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > Thanks again.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > --- In [email protected], tom kasmer
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > >
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > my experience witn GM alternators is that the
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > brushes
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > will last
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > about 150,000 miles + or -. That is a half year of
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > steady driving. The alternator is subjected to
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > underhood temperature extreemes and wild
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > accelerations. In an outdoor enclosed housing,
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > running at a fairly constant speed, you might get
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > a
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > year of 24/7.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > Your 1-1.5 amps sounds low. How did you get that
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > number? As far as PM generators, any PM motor will
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > work nicely as a generator. 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > 4 feet of head is only 2 psi of pressure. How much
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > total flow 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > does the creek have worst case drought time? Is
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > that
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > the 50 gpm number? If you are limited to this
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > level of
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > power, that is about
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > 20 watts best case with an automotive generator.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > You
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > might better spend your budget on a photovoltaic
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > array
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > and settle for
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > daylight only solar power with less hassle. Im not
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > an
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > expert in microhydro power so others may do
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > better.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > Tom Kasmer
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > --- williameverettstone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > Hi All,
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > I have a situation with minimum 50gpm flow year
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > round (I have been
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > measuring for 5 years, through drought and
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > different
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > seasons). 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > My wife and I are planning to rebuild the
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > remnants
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > of a small dam on
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > the creek which would provide about 4' head. We
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > estimate we could
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > generate 1 to 1.5 amps here.
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > We are on a budget, and a prebuilt micro hydro
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > unit
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > is out of the
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > question, at least the ones I've seen so far
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > ($1,000
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > and up).
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > If we were to use an off the shelf auto/truck
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > alternator w/ brushes,
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > how long can we expect the brushes to last
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > running
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > 24/7? Are PM
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > alternators available, and how pricey are they?
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > My second dilemma is predicting the best turbine
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > type and size, and
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > pulley ratio to obtain the highest RPM at the
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > alternator with the
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > available water flow. Is there a method to help
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > make
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > these decisions?
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > If we fabricate some sort of squirrel cage type
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > turbine, how do I
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > decide the optimum radius of the unit?
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > 
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > Thanks so much for any help!
> 
> > > 
> 
> > > > > > Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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